Shishapangma: Diplomatic Triumph & 189-Day World Record

The Closed Mountain

By October 2019, thirteen of the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks had fallen to Nirmal Purja. Only Shishapangma (8,027m), located entirely within the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, stood between him and history. But Shishapangma had been strictly closed to all climbing permits following a series of fatal avalanches in previous seasons.

What followed was an unprecedented international diplomatic effort. The government of Nepal, the Nepal Mountaineering Association, British diplomatic contacts, and thousands of global alpine supporters petitioned the government of China. Recognizing the historical significance of the quest, the State Council of China granted a historic, one-time special climbing permit to Nirmal Purja and his team.

The Final Assault

Entering Tibet on October 18, Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa, and Gesman Tamang established Base Camp. Winter was closing in rapidly across the Tibetan plateau; temperatures plunged below −40 °C and hurricane-force winds swept across the Northern Route.

On October 28, moving under severe blizzard conditions, the team pushed from Camp 2 directly into the upper Death Zone. Kicking steps through frozen crust and navigating the fragile summit ridge in near-whiteout conditions, Purja maintained relentless focus.

189 Days: History Rewritten

At 08:58 AM on October 29, 2019, Nirmal Purja and his Nepali team stepped onto the summit of Shishapangma.

The expedition had taken 6 months and 6 days (189 days). The previous world record stood at 7 years, 10 months, and 6 days by Kim Chang-ho, and Jerzy Kukuczka’s pioneering milestone took nearly 8 years. In 189 days of superhuman endurance, tactical brilliance, and selfless camaraderie, Nirmal Purja and his Nepali brothers permanently transformed the landscape of world mountaineering.