Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route)
The Bonington-Whillans route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torre Central, 2,460 m) is an iconic big-wall classic in Chilean Patagonia. Pioneered in January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans, the route ascends 800 metres of vertical and overhanging golden granite (UIAA VI / 5.
Ascent line, technical cruxes & camp topography profile for Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route)
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Tactical & Camp Notes
Based out of the Valle del Silencio or Valle Ascencio, climbers fix ropes on lower ramps and diagonal cracks. The upper wall demands sustained free and aid climbing along steep flakes, thin seams, and icy chimneys, culminating in a dramatic traverse below the summit roofs and an exposed ridge scramble to the horn.
Interactive Elevation Profile
Vertical profile, technical cruxes, and camp staging progression for Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route) on Torres del Paine.
Lenga forest base camp near the glacial moraines of Laguna Torres.
Camp-by-Camp Topography
Key staging altitudes, technical cruxes, and terrain transitions for Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route).
Campamento Torres Base
Lenga forest base camp near the glacial moraines of Laguna Torres.
The Whillans Box (Mid-Wall Bivouac)
Historic hanging shelter carved onto a precarious rock ledge midway up the east precipice.
Torre Central Summit
Needle-like granite summit horn offering sweeping views across the Paine horns and Patagonian Icefield.
Topographic Location & Terrain Map
Cartographic datum, massif coordinates, and terrain context for Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route) on Torres del Paine.
Interactive Topographic Terrain Map
Click below to load live cartographic contours, glacier approaches, and geographic markers for Torres del Paine (50°56′32″ S, 72°59′36″ W).
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Wall Height
- 800 metres (2,625 feet) vertical granite
- Technical Grade
- Grade VI / YDS 5.11 / A2
- First Ascent Date
- January 16, 1963 (Chris Bonington, Don Whillans)
- Tower Elevation
- 2,460 m (8,071 ft) — Torre Central
- Park
- Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Don Whillans moved up the icy cracks of the Central Tower with the balance of a cat and the strength of a bull.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Whillans Box
- A historic improvised hanging shelter designed by Don Whillans to endure weeks of Patagonian storms suspended mid-wall.
- Torre Central
- The central and most dramatic monolithic needle in the Torres del Paine massif in Chilean Patagonia.
Frequently Asked Questions: Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route)
What is the Bonington-Whillans route on the Central Tower of Paine?
The Bonington-Whillans is an 800-metre Grade VI big-wall granite climb on the East Face of Torre Central (2,460 m) in Chilean Patagonia, climbed in 1963.
Who made the first ascent of the Bonington-Whillans route?
British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans on January 16, 1963, representing the Alpine Club.
What was the international competition surrounding the first ascent?
A rival Italian expedition led by Armando Aste was attempting the same face simultaneously before shifting sportingly to the South Tower.
What is the climbing difficulty of the Bonington-Whillans route?
Graded UIAA VI+ / 5.11 A2, featuring sustained vertical cracks, icy chimneys, and exposed blank granite flakes.
What was the "Whillans Box"?
A tiny wooden-framed shelter lashed to a narrow rock ledge halfway up the vertical wall where climbers sheltered from screaming storms.
What gear did Bonington and Whillans use in 1963?
Hand-forged chrome-moly pitons, wooden wedges, nylon hawser-laid ropes, and nailed boots, pushing the boundaries of traditional big-wall aid.
How long did the British team spend on the expedition?
Nearly six weeks battling sub-zero Roaring Forties gales in the Valle del Silencio before finding their summit window.
What view greeted the climbers from the summit horn?
Sweeping vistas across the Cuernos del Paine, Lake Pehoe, and the vast Northern and Southern Patagonian Icefields.
Mountain Ascended
Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine is a world-renowned complex of vertical granite towers rising to 2,500 metres in Chilean Patagonia's Torres del Paine National Park. The three primary monoliths—Torre Sur (2,500 m), Torre Central (2,460 m), and Torre Norte (2,260 m)—plunge sheer down to glacial lakes and moraines, battered by legendary Roaring Forties gales. Italian guides led by Armando Aste first conquered Torre Sur in 1963, while British alpine legends Chris Bonington and Don Whillans won an epic international race to make the first ascent of the sheer 800-metre east face of Torre Central in January 1963.
Documented Expeditions on this Route (1)
Verified historical summits, siege campaigns, and pioneer attempts recorded on Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route).
1963 British First Ascent of the Central Tower of Paine
On January 16, 1963, British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans won a dramatic international climbing race against an Italian team to complete the first ascent of the sheer Central Tower of Paine in Chilean Patagonia.
Archival Chronicles & Stories on this Route (1)
In-depth longform historical narratives, harrowing survival accounts, and firsthand alpine journals on Central Tower of Paine East Face (Bonington-Whillans Route).
The Battle for the Needles: Bonington and Whillans on the Central Tower of Paine
In January 1963, British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans won an extraordinary international climbing race against an Italian team, completing the first ascent of the vertical 800-metre Central Tower of Paine.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- The Alpine Journal: The Central Tower of Paine(Chris Bonington / The Alpine Club)
Supporting claim: Official expedition journal chronicling the British first ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1963 - Don Whillans: Portrait of a Mountaineer(Jim Perrin / The Mountaineers Books)
Supporting claim: Detailed historical biography of Whillans' technical lead on the East Face of Torre Central
Accessed/Documented: 2005