First Women of the Karakoram: Palmowska and Czerwińska on Broad Peak

In the early 1980s, the global high-altitude mountaineering scene was heavily dominated by massive national expeditions deploying dozens of climbers, extensive fixed ropes, and military-style logistics. Women were rarely included on summit rosters, and all-female expeditions were viewed with deep skepticism by the international climbing establishment.

Two Polish mountaineers—Krystyna Palmowska, an electronic engineer, and Anna Czerwińska, a pharmacologist—were determined to dismantle those prejudices. Having already achieved the first all-female ascent of the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1977 and climbed Gasherbrum II, the duo set their sights on Broad Peak (8,051m) in the Karakoram. Their vision was radical: not only would they climb without men, but they would climb in pure, self-reliant alpine style without bottled oxygen, high-altitude porters, or extensive fixed lines.

Confronting the West Ridge

Arriving at the base of the Godwin-Austen Glacier in early June 1983, Palmowska and Czerwińska established their base camp opposite the towering pyramid of K2. Over three weeks, they established three lightweight camps along the standard West Ridge, hauling their own tents, food, and climbing gear up the steep snow slopes and mixed rock bands.

Their self-reliance astonished other international expeditions in the Baltoro region. Operating with meticulous discipline and technical efficiency, they adapted smoothly to the thin air, waiting out a series of ferocious Karakoram blizzards before moving into position at Camp 3 at 7,100 metres on June 29.

The Summit on June 30, 1983

In the freezing pre-dawn darkness of June 30, 1983, Palmowska and Czerwińska began their final push toward the summit crest. Ascending the steep snow couloir to the Broad Peak col at 7,800 metres, they emerged onto the windswept ridge overlooking the vast peaks of China to the east.

Battling intense exhaustion, biting cold, and deep powder, Krystyna Palmowska pushed forward along the narrow, undulating summit arête. In the afternoon of June 30, 1983, Palmowska reached the true summit of Broad Peak at 8,051 metres, becoming the first woman in world history to stand on top of the mountain. Czerwińska reached the foresummit ridge just below the highest point before the pair reunited to make a cautious, disciplined descent through the gathering darkness back to Camp 3.

Their triumph proved that female climbers could execute pure alpine-style ascents on the world’s most daunting 8,000-metre giants with complete independence, setting a benchmark for modern high-altitude exploration.