1995 Pakistani-Dutch K2 Expedition: Rajab & Mehrban Shah Summit

Pakistan🏔️ 5 Peaks

Mehrban Shah

Mehrban Shah was born in 1956 in the high alpine village of Shimshal in upper Gojal, Hunza, Pakistan. Like his village kinsman and lifelong climbing companion Rajab Shah, Mehrban was raised in the severe, high-altitude environment of the Wakhi Pamirs, accustomed from boyhood to traversing glaciated passes, negotiating swollen glacial torrents, and hauling heavy survival loads over rugged mountain tracks. Possessing immense physical power, calm endurance under duress, and an understated humility, Mehrban joined the high-altitude porter ranks in the late 1980s. When paired with Rajab Shah, the two formed an unbeatable indigenous rope partnership. In 1989, Mehrban made his first 8,000-meter conquest on Nanga Parbat (8,126m) via the Kinshofer Route. In July 1990, he reached the summit of Gasherbrum I (8,068m), followed in August 1992 by a rapid double triumph: summiting Gasherbrum II (8,035m) and then repeating Gasherbrum I alongside Nazir Sabir and Rajab Shah. On July 7, 1993, Mehrban stood atop Broad Peak (8,051m) with Rajab Shah, giving them four of Pakistan's five eight-thousanders. The crowning achievement of his mountaineering life came on July 20, 1995, on K2 (8,611m). Ascending the steep Abruzzi Spur alongside Rajab Shah as part of an international expedition, Mehrban climbed through the Bottleneck and reached the summit in clear weather, becoming the second Pakistani to conquer all five 8,000-meter peaks on Pakistani soil. For his extraordinary achievements, he was decorated with the President's Pride of Performance Award. Tragically, in the summer of 2002, while guiding an international expedition on Gasherbrum II, a massive avalanche swept across the traverse above Camp II. Mehrban Shah was buried in the snow slide and killed. His death sent shockwaves across Shimshal and the global mountaineering community. Mehrban Shah is revered alongside Rajab Shah as an immortal hero of Pakistani high-altitude exploration whose humility and technical mastery paved the way for generations of northern Pakistani alpinists.

Pakistan🏔️ 5 Peaks

Rajab Shah

Rajab Shah was born in 1951 in the remote mountain settlement of Shimshal in the Gojal upper Hunza valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Nestled behind the jagged glaciers of the Karakoram, the Wakhi community of Shimshal was isolated from the modern world, accessible only by days of treacherous foot journeys along narrow cliff paths. Growing up herding yaks across high passes, Shah developed extraordinary cardiovascular endurance, balance on vertical screes, and deep mental composure. In the 1980s, Shah began working as a high-altitude porter on international Karakoram expeditions. His innate technical agility, infectious optimism, and natural leadership quickly elevated him from porter to climbing team member. In 1989, Shah achieved his first 8,000-meter summit by reaching the apex of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) via the Kinshofer Route. In July 1990, he conquered Gasherbrum I (8,068m), followed in August 1992 by a rapid back-to-back success on Gasherbrum II (8,035m) and a repeat ascent of Gasherbrum I alongside Nazir Sabir and his lifelong climbing partner, Mehrban Shah. On July 7, 1993, Shah and Mehrban Shah stood atop Broad Peak (8,051m). Recognized for his extraordinary contributions to Pakistani mountaineering, President Ghulam Ishaq Khan conferred upon him the prestigious President's Pride of Performance Award in 1993. The ultimate milestone occurred on July 20, 1995: as part of a joint Pakistani-Dutch team, Rajab Shah and Mehrban Shah climbed the formidable Abruzzi Spur to reach the summit of K2 (8,611m). With this triumph, Rajab Shah became the first Pakistani in history to conquer all five 8,000-meter mountains on Pakistani soil. Rather than resting upon his national fame, Shah dedicated the remainder of his life to his community. In 2009, with the support of Simone Moro and international donors, he founded the Shimshal Mountaineering School, establishing Pakistan's first professional alpine training academy. Uniquely, Shah insisted that women be trained alongside men, breaking centuries of patriarchal tradition. Among his proudest pupils was his niece, Samina Baig, whom he personally trained on local glaciated peaks, guiding her to become the first Pakistani woman to summit Mount Everest and complete the Seven Summits. Rajab Shah passed away in Lahore on April 29, 2015, following a battle with cancer. He is venerated throughout Pakistan and the global mountaineering community as a pioneer of native alpine leadership, a humble mentor, and the true founding father of Shimshal's world-renowned mountaineering dynasty.