1913 Freda Du Faur and Peter Graham Historic Maiden Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook
On January 3, 1913, Australian mountaineer Freda Du Faur and guides Peter Graham and David Thomson achieved the first complete Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook (3,724 m). Traversed south to north across Low Peak, Middle Peak, and High Peak along razor-edge corniced ridges and vertical greywacke gendarmes, the 20-hour expedition stands as the greatest triumph of New Zealand's golden age of mountaineering.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Official Expedition Narrative & Archival Record
By 1913, Freda Du Faur was recognized as one of the world's most accomplished mountaineers. However, the supreme challenge of the Southern Alps remained untouched: traversing all three peaks of Mount Cook in a continuous alpine line. The route required balanced ridge-walking along knife-edge snow cornices with vertical drops of over 1,500 metres plunging toward the Caroline Face and Linda Glacier. At 2:45 AM on January 3, 1913, Du Faur, Peter Graham, and David Thomson departed the Empress bivouac. Climbing up the Sheila Glacier, they gained the crest of the Low Peak (3,593 m) at dawn. For the next eight hours, the trio balanced along wind-honed cornices, down-climbing shattered rock ribs and step-cutting across blue ice arêtes to reach the Middle Peak (3,717 m) and finally the High Peak (3,724 m). Without modern protection or ropes, Du Faur demonstrated icecraft and composure of the highest order. Descending via the Linda Glacier, the party arrived safely at the Hermitage after twenty continuous hours of severe technical climbing, completing what the alpine community celebrated as the finest high ridge traverse ever executed in the Southern Hemisphere.
Documented Team Composition
- Freda Du Faur (Climber, Australia)
- Peter Graham (Lead Guide, New Zealand)
- David Thomson (Mountain Guide, New Zealand)
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Peaks Traversed
- Low (3,593 m), Middle (3,717 m), High (3,724 m)
- Completion Date
- January 3, 1913
- Expedition Time
- 20 continuous hours
- Pioneering Climbers
- Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, David Thomson
- Technical Grade
- NZ Grade 3+, UIAA IV
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“The Grand Traverse was the dream of our lives. It called for everything an alpinist could possess: speed, iron nerves, boundless endurance, and absolute faith in one's rope companions.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Cornice
- An overhanging horizontal lip of wind-packed snow formed along the crest of an alpine mountain ridge that can collapse suddenly under weight.
- Caroline Face
- The imposing 2,000-metre glaciated southeast face of Aoraki Mount Cook, renowned as one of the most formidable ice faces in the Pacific.
Frequently Asked Questions: 1913 Freda Du Faur and Peter Graham Historic Maiden Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook
What is the Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook?
The Grand Traverse is a celebrated alpine expedition traversing the Low Peak, Middle Peak, and High Peak along the knife-edge crest of New Zealand's highest mountain.
Who first completed the Mount Cook Grand Traverse in 1913?
Australian mountaineer Freda Du Faur alongside New Zealand guides Peter Graham and David Thomson achieved the first complete Grand Traverse on January 3, 1913.
Why is the Mount Cook Grand Traverse considered so dangerous?
Climbers must balance along narrow corniced snow ridges with vertical drops of over 1,500 metres into the Caroline Face, with no escape during sudden maritime storms.
Ascent Route & Topography
Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook
The Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook is widely considered the supreme classic high alpine expedition in the Southern Alps. Spanning the entire triple-crowned crest of New Zealand's highest mountain—crossing the Low Peak (3,593 m), Middle Peak (3,717 m), and High Peak (3,724 m)—the route features kilometres of exposed corniced ice ridges, shattered greywacke pinnacles, and dizzying exposure above the Caroline Face and Linda Glacier. First completed on January 3, 1913, by Australian mountaineer Freda Du Faur with guides Peter Graham and David Thomson, it remains a benchmark test of high-altitude speed, crampon confidence, and ridge-walking balance.
Target Objective Peak
Aoraki / Mount Cook
Aoraki / Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand at 3,724 meters (12,218 ft). Located in the Southern Alps, it is an ultra-prominent glaciated peak rising dramatically above the Tasman Glacier. It is sacred in Māori mythology as the ancestor Aoraki. The mountain is renowned as the formative training ground where Sir Edmund Hillary developed his high-altitude icecraft. On January 30, 1948, Hillary completed the historic first ascent of the technical South Ridge alongside Harry Ayres. Climbing Aoraki requires expert crampon technique, glacier navigation, and vigilance against severe maritime storms.
Featured Expedition Climber
Freda Du Faur
Emmeline Freda Du Faur was born on September 16, 1882, in Croydon, Sydney, Australia. Drawn to open nature from an early age, she explored the sandstone gorges and cliffs of the Blue Mountains near her home in Ku-ring-gai Chase. In 1906, Du Faur visited the New Zealand International Exhibition in Christchurch, where photographs of the snowcapped Southern Alps ignited a passion that would redefine women's mountaineering. Traveling to Mount Cook in late 1909, Du Faur engaged chief guide Peter Graham. Graham immediately recognized her exceptional physical fitness, natural agility, and fearless mental composure. On December 3, 1910, Du Faur, accompanied by Peter Graham and Alec Graham, reached the summit of Aoraki / Mount Cook (3,724 m) in a record time of six hours, becoming the first woman to conquer New Zealand's highest peak. Facing intense societal pressure regarding Victorian modesty, Du Faur refused to climb in heavy skirts, designing a functional knee-length skirt over knickerbockers that revolutionized women's alpine attire. Over the next four seasons, Du Faur accomplished a series of audacious firsts, including the first ascents of Mount Dampier (3,440 m), Mount Nazomi, and the virgin Mount Sefton. Her crowning triumph came on January 3, 1913: together with Peter Graham and David Thomson, Du Faur completed the first-ever Grand Traverse of Aoraki / Mount Cook, traversing Low Peak, Middle Peak, and High Peak in a single day along razor-sharp corniced arêtes. In 1915, she published *The Conquest of Mount Cook and Other Climbs*, an international mountaineering classic. She passed away on September 11, 1935, revered globally as a fearless pioneer of female empowerment and high-altitude alpinism.
Associated Historical Chronicles & Stories
Across the Razor's Edge: The 1913 Mount Cook Grand Traverse
Twenty continuous hours on the knife-edge crest of New Zealand: Freda Du Faur and Peter Graham conquer the triple peaks of Aoraki.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- The Conquest of Mount Cook and Other Climbs(Freda Du Faur / George Allen & Unwin)
Supporting claim: Complete primary account of the 1913 Grand Traverse
Accessed/Documented: 1915 - New Zealand Alpine Journal(New Zealand Alpine Club)
Supporting claim: Technical survey and appraisal of the 1913 Mount Cook Grand Traverse
Accessed/Documented: 1913