Xu Jing
Xu Jing (Hsu Ching) was an eminent Chinese mountaineer and expedition commander who led and achieved the maiden first ascent of Shishapangma (8,027m) on May 2, 1964. By conquering Shishapangma, Xu completed the first ascents of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in human history.
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Biographical Record & Archival Chronicle
Xu Jing was born in 1927 in Liaoning Province, China. A pioneer of modern Chinese high-altitude mountaineering, Xu underwent rigorous alpine training in the Soviet Caucasus and Pamir mountains during the mid-1950s, mastering extreme glaciology, expedition logistics, and severe ice navigation.
In 1960, Xu served as deputy leader and chief field commander of the Chinese Mount Everest Expedition, orchestrating the complex logistical establishment of camps up the East Rongbuk Glacier and North Col, which culminated in the historic first summit of Everest via the North Ridge by Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua, and Gonpo on May 25, 1960.
In 1964, the Chinese Mountaineering Association appointed Xu as the leader of the national expedition to Shishapangma (8,027m, also known as Gosainthan) in south-central Tibet. Shishapangma was the only 8,000-meter peak situated entirely within Chinese territory and the fourteenth and final eight-thousander on Earth left unclimbed.
Demonstrating superb organizational command, Xu established Base Camp on the northern approaches and established four high camps through massive crevasses and steep icefields. On the morning of May 2, 1964, leading from the front, Xu Jing and nine teammates—including Wang Fuzhou, Zhang Junyan, Wu Zongyue, and Tibetan climber Sodnam Doje—overcame deep avalanche-prone snow on the final summit crest. At 10:20 AM, Xu stepped onto the 8,027-meter summit of Shishapangma, writing the concluding chapter in the historic golden age of first ascents of the world's 14 eight-thousanders.
Xu continued to serve as a revered elder statesman of Chinese mountaineering, mentoring generations of elite Himalayan climbers and organizing the landmark 1975 Chinese Everest expedition. He passed away on October 15, 2011, at age 84, remembered as the visionary commander who conquered Earth's last virgin eight-thousander.
Notable Milestones & Ascents
- Organized, led, and reached the summit on the maiden first ascent of Shishapangma (8,027m) on May 2, 1964
- Completed the first ascents of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks on Earth
- Deputy leader and field strategist of the 1960 Chinese Everest North Ridge expedition
- Trained the first generation of elite Chinese and Tibetan high-altitude mountaineers
- Awarded the highest national sports medals by the State Physical Culture and Sports Commission
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Shishapangma First Ascent
- May 2, 1964 (8,027m)
Expedition Commander & Summiteer
- Everest 1960 Role
- Deputy Leader & Field Director
North Ridge First Ascent
- Milestone
- 14th & Final 8,000m Peak
Golden Age of Alpinism Complete
- Life Span
- 1927–2011
Pioneer of Asian Alpinism
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“The last virgin giant of the Earth had been reached. It was a victory not just for China, but for all mankind.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Golden Era of Eight-Thousanders
- The fourteen-year span between Annapurna I (June 3, 1950) and Shishapangma (May 2, 1964) during which all 14 peaks above 8,000m were first climbed.
Frequently Asked Questions: Xu Jing
Who was Xu Jing (Hsu Ching)?
Xu Jing was an eminent Chinese mountaineering commander who organized, led, and reached the summit on the maiden first ascent of Shishapangma (8,027m) on May 2, 1964.
Why is Xu Jing’s summit of Shishapangma historic?
By conquering Shishapangma, Xu Jing completed the first ascents of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks on Earth, bringing the historic golden era of Himalayan exploration to an end.
What was Xu Jing’s role on the 1960 Everest expedition?
Xu served as deputy leader and chief field commander, directing the logistics and camp establishments up the East Rongbuk Glacier and North Col that enabled the 1960 summit triumph.
Associated Summits (1)
Shishapangma
Shishapangma, at 8,027 meters (26,335 ft), is the fourteenth-highest mountain on Earth and the only 8,000-meter peak situated entirely within Tibetan/Chinese territory. Due to geopolitical restrictions, it was the final eight-thousander to be climbed, summited by a Chinese expedition on May 2, 1964.
Pioneered & Associated Routes (1)
Shishapangma Northwest Ridge (Normal Route)
The Northwest Ridge is the standard route on Shishapangma, situated entirely in Tibet and first ascended by a Chinese expedition in 1964. Approached from the dry, high-altitude plateau of southern Tibet, the route climbs gently sloping glaciers to an upper plateau, gains the Central Peak (8,008m), and traverses a knife-edge snow arête with massive drop-offs to reach the true Main Summit at 8,027m.
Documented Expeditions (1)
1964 Chinese Expedition to Shishapangma
The landmark Chinese expedition led by Xu Jing that conquered Shishapangma (8,027m) on May 2, 1964, completing the maiden first ascents of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks on Earth.
Associated Chronicles & Stories (1)
Shishapangma 1964: Conquering the Final Eight-Thousander
On May 2, 1964, a ten-man Chinese team led by Xu Jing and including Everest hero Wang Fuzhou conquered the 8,027-meter summit of Shishapangma, bringing to a triumphant close the historic golden era of first ascents of the world's 14 eight-thousanders.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- A Clamour on Shisha Pangma(Chinese Mountaineering Association / Foreign Languages Press)
Supporting claim: Official expedition leader chronicle of the 1964 Shishapangma first ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1965 - The Himalayan Database: Shishapangma 1964 Expedition Records(Elizabeth Hawley Archive)
Supporting claim: Official expedition verification, summit timestamps, and participant rosters
Accessed/Documented: 2026 - Chinese Alpine Journal: Xu Jing Memorial Edition(Chinese Mountaineering Association)
Supporting claim: Biographical survey of Xu Jing's career and leadership
Accessed/Documented: 2012