Peak Korzhenevskaya
Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third-highest summit in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan at 7,105 metres (23,310 ft) and one of the five coveted Snow Leopard peaks. Discovered in August 1910 by Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenevsky and named in honour of his courageous wife and travel companion Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the peak stands prominently just 13 kilometres north of Ismoil Somoni Peak across the Moskvina Glade base camp.
Tajikistan
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Geographical Setting & Topography
Northern Academy of Sciences Range, Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan.
Historic First Ascent
Date: August 22, 1953
Ascent Team: Evgeny Timashev and 7 teammates (VTsSPS Soviet Expedition)
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Elevation
- 7,105 m (23,310 ft)
- Prominence
- 1,650 m (Ultra-prominent)
- First Ascent
- August 22, 1953 by Evgeny Timashev team
- Base Camp
- Moskvina Glade (4,200 m)
- Location
- Tajikistan (Academy of Sciences Range)
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Korzhenevskaya rises like an ivory spear over the Moskvina basin, challenging every climber who enters the high Pamir.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Tsetlin Ridge
- The classic rock and snow ridge pioneering the standard southern ascent route on Peak Korzhenevskaya.
Peak Korzhenevskaya Mountain Weather Forecast
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Peak Korzhenevskaya.
Explore Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Peak Korzhenevskaya Tsetlin Ridge & South Face
The Tsetlin Ridge is the standard and most secure route to the summit of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m). Beginning at the Moskvina Base Camp (4,200 m), climbers ascend the moraines of the Moskvina Glacier, climb fixed ropes along the rocky Tsetlin Ridge to high camps at 5,800 m and 6,400 m, and negotiate steep snow gullies to reach the sharp summit ridge at 7,105 metres.
Historical Expeditions (2)
1910 Nikolai Korzhenevsky Discovery of Peak Korzhenevskaya
In August 1910, Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenevsky led a daring scientific reconnaissance along the Muksu River basin into the unknown interior of the Pamir Mountains, discovering the colossal 7,105-metre peak and naming it in honour of his wife Evgenia.
1953 Evgeny Timashev Expedition: First Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya
On August 22, 1953, Master of Soviet Alpinism Evgeny Timashev led an eight-man team to the maiden first ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) in the Pamir Mountains, completing the conquest of the range's great 7,000-metre triumvirate.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (2)
The Sighting of a Queen: Nikolai Korzhenevsky and the Discovery of Peak Korzhenevskaya
In the summer of 1910, the deep interior of the Pamir Mountains remained one of the final blank spaces on the cartographic map of Eurasia. Roaming across roarin...
The Conquest of Korzhenevskaya: Evgeny Timashev's Masterclass, 1953
For forty-three years following Nikolai Korzhenevsky's 1910 discovery, Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) stood unvanquished. Multiple exploratory teams were repulse...
Frequently Asked Questions: Peak Korzhenevskaya
Who discovered Peak Korzhenevskaya and after whom is it named?
Peak Korzhenevskaya was discovered in 1910 by Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenevsky and named in honour of his wife Evgenia Korzhenevskaya.
How tall is Peak Korzhenevskaya?
Peak Korzhenevskaya has an elevation of 7,105 metres (23,310 ft), making it the third-highest peak in the Pamir Mountains.
What is the standard climbing route on Peak Korzhenevskaya?
The Tsetlin Ridge on the South Face from Moskvina Base Camp is the classic standard route, rated Russian Grade 5A / Alpine IV.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- First Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya(Soviet Alpinism Annual / Evgeny Timashev)
Supporting claim: First ascent expedition narrative and route survey of the Northern Ridge
Accessed/Documented: 1954