Historic First Female Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) & Miraculous Night Rescue at 6,000m2017-12-20 to 2018-02-02

2018 Nanga Parbat Winter Summit & Epic Night Rescue Expedition

On January 25, 2018, French climber Élisabeth Revol and Polish alpinist Tomasz Mackiewicz achieved the historic winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m); during a tragic descent in which Mackiewicz perished, Polish climbers Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki executed a miraculous night rescue to save Revol.

Country: Pakistan
Region: Gilgit-Baltistan / Western Himalaya
Summit Date: 2018-01-25
The frozen, sheer Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, scene of the historic 2018 winter ascent and legendary night rescue.
Photo by Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
Editorially Verified
Historical Reference Record

Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.

Peer Review: Senior Editorial Board & Historical Reviewers • Editorial Standards

Published:
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Official Expedition Narrative & Archival Record

In January 2018, French teacher Élisabeth Revol and Polish mountaineer Tomasz 'Tomek' Mackiewicz mounted their fourth winter attempt on Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in pure, lightweight alpine style without supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. On January 25, 2018, battling hurricane-force winds and temperatures below -45°C, they stood atop the 8,126-meter summit, making Revol the first woman in history to conquer Nanga Parbat in winter. However, on the summit crest, disaster struck: Mackiewicz succumbed to severe snow blindness, acute altitude sickness, and hypothermia, losing the ability to see or walk. Revol guided him down through the freezing night to 7,280 meters, sheltering him in a crevasse before continuing down to alert emergency services. Pinned on the mountain for over 48 hours without a tent or sleeping bag and suffering severe frostbite to her extremities, Revol's plight mobilized the global alpine community. In an unprecedented rescue operation, Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters airlifted elite Polish climbers Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki from K2 Base Camp to Nanga Parbat's Diamir Face. In darkness and howling winds, Urubko and Bielecki climbed 1,200 vertical meters up the Kinshofer Route in under eight hours, reaching Revol at 6,000 meters in the dead of night on January 28, 2018, and escorting her to safety in one of the most heroic high-altitude rescues in human history.

Documented Team Composition

  • Élisabeth Revol (Summit Climber, France)
  • Tomasz Mackiewicz (Summit Climber, Poland - Perished on Descent)
  • Denis Urubko (Rescue Climber, Kazakhstan / Poland)
  • Adam Bielecki (Rescue Climber, Poland)
  • Jarosław Botor (Rescue Coordinator, Poland)
Organizing Bodies: Pakistan Army Aviation Corps, Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA), Club Alpin Français (CAF), Embassy of France in Pakistan
Verified Topographic Data

Key Statistics & Topographic Figures

Summit Date & Time
January 25, 2018 (6:15 PM)

Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Pakistan

Historical First
1st Female Winter Nanga Parbat Summit

Élisabeth Revol (France)

Night Rescue Speed
1,200m in 7 Hours 40 Minutes

Urubko & Bielecki Night Sprint on Kinshofer Wall

Rescue Rendezvous
6,000 Metres (January 28, 1:50 AM)

Revol Reached in Sub-Zero Blizzard

Aviation Support
Pakistan Army Aviation Ecureuil

High-Altitude Aerial Extraction from Diamir Face

Historical Evidence & First-Hand Accounts

Archival Primary Source Quotations

“When Denis and Adam appeared out of the darkness with hot tea and medicine, I knew that human solidarity had conquered the mountain.”

— Élisabeth Revol (2018)Source: Hospital Statement in Islamabad
Domain Glossary & Definitions

Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts

Kinshofer Wall
A steep, technical 100-metre granite buttress on Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face at 6,000 metres that forms the primary crux of the route.
High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)
A fatal high-altitude medical emergency where lack of oxygen causes fluid accumulation in brain tissue, resulting in blindness, confusion, and coma.
Citability & Knowledge Retrieval

Frequently Asked Questions: 2018 Nanga Parbat Winter Summit & Epic Night Rescue Expedition

When did Élisabeth Revol make the first female winter ascent of Nanga Parbat?

Élisabeth Revol reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in winter on January 25, 2018, at 6:15 PM local time.

Who reached the summit of Nanga Parbat with Élisabeth Revol on January 25, 2018?

Polish mountaineer Tomasz "Tomek" Mackiewicz summited with Revol on their fourth winter attempt on the mountain.

What medical emergency struck Tomasz Mackiewicz on the summit of Nanga Parbat?

Mackiewicz developed severe acute snow blindness and cerebral edema on the summit crest, losing vision and physical coordination.

Where did Élisabeth Revol leave Tomasz Mackiewicz during the descent?

Revol sheltered Mackiewicz inside a protected crevasse at 7,280 metres, wrapping him in his sleeping bag before descending to summon help.

Who executed the heroic night rescue of Élisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat?

Polish climbers Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki were airlifted from K2 and ascended 1,200 vertical metres at night to rescue her.

How fast did Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki climb to reach Élisabeth Revol?

Urubko and Bielecki climbed the frozen Kinshofer Route from 4,800m to 6,000m in seven hours and forty minutes in pitch darkness.

At what altitude was Élisabeth Revol rescued on Nanga Parbat?

She was reached by Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki at approximately 6,000 metres on the Kinshofer ice wall at 1:50 AM on January 28, 2018.

What awards did Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki receive for the rescue?

They received the French Legion of Honour, the Knight’s Cross of Polonia Restituta, and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award for alpine gallantry.

Ascent Route & Topography

Kinshofer Route (Diamir Face) climbing route
🧗Standard / Normal Route
UIAA V+ on Kinshofer Wall, 65° blue ice
+3,926 m

Kinshofer Route (Diamir Face)

The Kinshofer Route is the standard climbing route up the Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat's western side. First climbed in 1962 by German mountaineer Toni Kinshofer and his teammates, it is famous for its early vertical crux, the Kinshofer Wall, which sits low on the mountain between Camp I and Camp II. Once past the wall, climbers face a massive glaciated amphitheater leading up into the freezing upper Bazhin Basin and summit shoulder.

Difficulty: Severe / Grade V+, TD
Prime Window: Mid-June to July
Known Hazards: 4 major objective risks noted
View Detailed Topography

Target Objective Peak

The immense glaciated wall of Nanga Parbat under clear alpine sky.
🚩 7 Expeditions
8,126 m
First Ascent: July 3, 1953🧗 4 Routes

Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat, at 8,126 meters (26,660 ft), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and the western anchor of the Himalayas in Pakistan. It boasts the Rupal Face, the highest vertical precipice in the world at 4,600 meters from valley floor to summit. Known for profound climbing history, highlighted by Hermann Buhl's legendary solo summit without supplemental oxygen in 1953.

Explore Peak & Routes

Featured Expedition Climbers

Polish mountaineer Adam Bielecki, first winter conqueror of Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak.
Poland🏔️ 5 Peaks

Adam Bielecki

🏔️ 5 Verified Summits🚩 3 Documented Expeditions

Born on May 12, 1983, in Tychy, Poland, Adam Bielecki demonstrated remarkable climbing talent from adolescence. At age seventeen, he made a solo alpine-style ascent of Khan Tengri (7,010m) in the Tien Shan, setting a record as the youngest person to accomplish the feat. Under the mentorship of Artur Hajzer and the Polish Winter Himalayism program, Bielecki became the vanguard of modern winter exploration. On March 9, 2012, Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb completed the historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I (8,068m) without supplemental oxygen, enduring brutal sub-zero temperatures. One year later, on March 5, 2013, Bielecki achieved the historic first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047m) alongside Maciej Berbeka, Tomasz Kowalski, and Artur Małek. In January 2018, during the Polish national winter K2 expedition, Bielecki and Denis Urubko were airlifted by Pakistan Army helicopters to Nanga Parbat to mount an emergency rescue of stranded French climber Élisabeth Revol and Polish climber Tomasz Mackiewicz. Climbing 1,200 vertical metres up the treacherous Kinshofer Route in darkness and sub-zero gales in under eight hours, Bielecki and Urubko reached Revol at 6,000 metres and safely lowered her to base camp, earning international accolades including the French Legion of Honour and the Knight's Cross of the Order of Polonia Restituta.

Key Milestone
First winter ascent of Gasherbrum I (8,068m) on March 9, 2012, with Janusz Gołąb without supplemental oxygen
View Climber Record
Denis Urubko, elite high-altitude mountaineer and winner of multiple Piolets d'Or.
Kazakhstan / Russia / Poland🏔️ 6 Peaks

Denis Urubko

🏔️ 6 Verified Summits🚩 3 Documented Expeditions

Born on July 29, 1973, in Nevinnomyssk, Soviet Union, Denis Urubko relocated to Almaty, Kazakhstan, where he joined the Central Sports Club of the Kazakh Army under legendary coach Ervand Ilyinsky. Urubko rapidly established himself as an elite high-altitude powerhouse, completing the Snow Leopard award by scaling all five 7,000-metre peaks of the former Soviet Union in an astonishing 42 days during the summer of 1999. In May 2009, he became the fifteenth person in history, and the eighth without supplemental oxygen, to summit all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks. Urubko is revered worldwide for his commitment to alpine style and new routes. In 2005, he established a new route on the Southwest Face of Broad Peak with Serguey Samoilov, followed by a new direct route on the Southeast Face of Cho Oyu in 2009, earning two Piolets d'Or. His partnership with Simone Moro yielded the historic first winter ascents of Makalu (2009) and Gasherbrum II (2011). In January 2018, while participating in the Polish winter K2 expedition, Urubko volunteered alongside Adam Bielecki to execute a desperate night rescue on Nanga Parbat, sprinting 1,200 vertical metres up the Kinshofer Route in pitch darkness to save French climber Élisabeth Revol.

Key Milestone
15th person in history to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, accomplished completely without supplemental oxygen
View Climber Record
French mountaineer Élisabeth Revol, first woman to summit Nanga Parbat in winter.
France🏔️ 6 Peaks

Élisabeth Revol

🏔️ 6 Verified Summits🚩 1 Documented Expeditions

Born on April 29, 1979, in Crest, Drôme, France, Élisabeth Revol discovered mountaineering in the French Alps and qualified as a physical education teacher. Revol dedicated herself to lightweight, non-commercial alpine-style ascents of the world's most daunting peaks. In 2008, she accomplished an astonishing solo hat-trick in the Karakoram, summiting Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II within sixteen days in alpine style without supplemental oxygen. In winter 2013, she turned her sights toward Nanga Parbat (8,126m), forming an enduring climbing partnership with Polish mountaineer Tomasz Mackiewicz. Together, they launched multiple winter bids in pure alpine style, battling extreme cold, blizzards, and financial hardship. On January 25, 2018, during their fourth joint winter attempt, Revol and Mackiewicz reached the summit of Nanga Parbat at 18:00 in -45°C temperatures, making Revol only the second woman in history to conquer an 8,000-metre peak in winter and the first on Nanga Parbat. On the summit ridge, Mackiewicz suffered catastrophic snow blindness, cerebral edema, and frostbite. Revol guided him down to a crevasse at 7,280 metres, provided him with all remaining shelter, and fought her way down alone through hallucinations and frostbite until being rescued at 6,000 metres by Polish climbers Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki. In May 2019, following medical treatment for severe frostbite, Revol returned to the Himalayas and scaled Mount Everest and Lhotse consecutively without supplemental oxygen, cementing her standing as one of the most formidable female alpinists in history.

Key Milestone
First woman to summit Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in winter, achieved on January 25, 2018, with Tomasz Mackiewicz
View Climber Record
Memorial plaque honoring Polish high-altitude mountaineer Tomasz Mackiewicz, who achieved the winter summit of Nanga Parbat in 2018.
Poland🏔️ 1 Peak

Tomasz Mackiewicz

🏔️ 1 Verified Summits🚩 1 Documented Expeditions

Born on January 13, 1975, in Częstochowa, Poland, Tomasz Mackiewicz overcame severe early life struggles and personal adversity through travel, hitchhiking across India, and discovering a profound spiritual calling in the high mountains. Unlike many traditionally trained Polish alpinists, Mackiewicz operated entirely outside institutional frameworks, organizing low-budget, grassroots expeditions funded through crowdfunding and unwavering personal passion. Drawn to Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in Pakistan, he became obsessed with conquering the mountain in winter, the harshest season imaginable. Between 2010 and 2018, Mackiewicz launched seven winter expeditions on Nanga Parbat, partnering with Marek Klonowski and later French alpinist Élisabeth Revol. In winter 2015, Mackiewicz and Revol pushed to 7,800 metres on the Messner Route before being turned back by extreme cold. In January 2018, climbing in pure alpine style without oxygen or high-altitude porters via the Kinshofer and Messner lines, Mackiewicz and Revol stood atop Nanga Parbat at 18:00 on January 25, completing only the second winter ascent in history. On the summit, Mackiewicz was stricken by severe snow blindness and acute altitude sickness. Revol tenderly escorted him down through hurricane-force winds to a crevasse at 7,280 metres, providing him with a down suit and tent shelter before descending to seek assistance. Unable to move, Mackiewicz remained on the mountain, which became his eternal resting place. He was posthumously awarded the Knight's Cross of the Order of Polonia Restituta in 2018 for outstanding contributions to Polish mountaineering.

Key Milestone
Second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) on January 25, 2018, accomplished with Élisabeth Revol in pure alpine style
View Climber Record

Associated Historical Chronicles & Stories

Documented Sources & Archival Citations

  • American Alpine Journal: Nanga Parbat in Winter and Tragic Descent(American Alpine Club)

    Supporting claim: Official climb report and comprehensive timeline of the summit and night rescue

    Accessed/Documented: 2019
  • To Live: Fighting for Life on the Killer Mountain(Élisabeth Revol / Vertebrate Publishing)

    Supporting claim: Autobiographical account of the winter summit on Nanga Parbat and survival at 6,600 meters

    Accessed/Documented: 2020