Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton)
The Complete Exum Ridge is widely revered as the finest, most aesthetic alpine rock climb in North America, scaling 1,700 vertical feet of immaculate, exposed Precambrian gneiss along the south ridge of Grand Teton directly to the summit.
Ascent line, technical cruxes & camp topography profile for Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton)
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Tactical & Camp Notes
The Lower Exum Ridge begins immediately above the Lower Saddle, ascending sustained 5.6 to 5.7 face climbing and classic corners on the Black Face to join the Upper Exum at Wall Street ledge. The Upper Exum follows the narrowing, dizzying shelf of Wall Street, executes the legendary 'Step-Across' leap onto the ridgecrest, ascends the yellow-gold jugs of the Golden Stair (5.4), navigates the delicate crystals of the Friction Pitch (5.5), conquers the sheer overhang of the V-Pitch (5.7), and finishes through the West Chimney directly onto the summit boulder.
Interactive Elevation Profile
Vertical profile, technical cruxes, and camp staging progression for Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton) on Grand Teton.
Historic national park climbers' gateway near Jenny Lake in Jackson Hole.
Camp-by-Camp Topography
Key staging altitudes, technical cruxes, and terrain transitions for Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton).
Lupine Meadows Trailhead
Historic national park climbers' gateway near Jenny Lake in Jackson Hole.
Lower Saddle High Camp
The wind-sheltered high camp between Middle Teton and Grand Teton hosting guide quonsets and stone windbreaks.
Wall Street Ledge
Spectacular natural shelf on the southeast face of Grand Teton terminating in the famous Step-Across gap.
Grand Teton Summit
Highest point in the Teton Range, commanding views across the Snake River and Absaroka Range.
Topographic Location & Terrain Map
Cartographic datum, massif coordinates, and terrain context for Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton) on Grand Teton.
Interactive Topographic Terrain Map
Click below to load live cartographic contours, glacier approaches, and geographic markers for Grand Teton (43°44′28″ N, 110°48′08″ W).
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Technical Grade
- YDS 5.7 / French 5a / UIAA V+
- Commitment Rating
- Grade III (16 Technical Pitches)
- Vertical Ridge Gain
- 1,700 feet of clean alpine rock
- Upper Exum Solo First Ascent
- July 15, 1931 (Glenn Exum)
- Classic Recognition
- Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“The Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton is pure joy—golden rock rising into blue Wyoming sky with the world falling away beneath your heels.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Golden Stair
- A steep, 90-foot pitch of yellow-gold quartzite jugs and cracks immediately following the Step-Across on the Exum Ridge.
- V-Pitch
- An exhilarating, highly exposed 5.7 corner pitch on the upper south ridge of Grand Teton overlooking Avalanche Canyon.
Frequently Asked Questions: Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton)
What is the Complete Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton?
The Complete Exum Ridge is a world-renowned alpine rock climb scaling 1,700 vertical feet along the south ridge of Grand Teton, graded YDS 5.7 (Grade III) with 16 pitches of golden gneiss.
What is the difference between the Upper Exum and Lower Exum Ridge?
The Lower Exum climbs sustained 5.6-5.7 pitches from the Lower Saddle to Wall Street, while the Upper Exum traverses Wall Street and scales the Golden Stair and V-Pitch to the summit.
Who first climbed the Exum Ridge?
Glenn Exum made the historic first solo ascent of the Upper Exum Ridge on July 15, 1931, wearing football shoes, and co-pioneered the full ridge with Paul Petzoldt in 1936.
What is the famous Step-Across on the Exum Ridge?
It is the airy crux transition where the Wall Street ledge terminates, requiring a bold step or leap across an open vertical void onto the main south ridgecrest.
What are the named pitches on the Upper Exum Ridge?
Named pitches include Wall Street, the Golden Stair (5.4), the Friction Pitch (5.5), the V-Pitch (5.7), and the West Chimney (5.5).
Why is the Complete Exum Ridge featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America?
It is celebrated for its solid Precambrian rock, continuous airy exposure, aesthetic line directly to the summit block, and rich mountaineering history.
How long does it take to climb the Complete Exum Ridge?
The technical ridge climbing typically takes 4 to 6 hours from the Lower Saddle, with total round-trip times from the trailhead ranging from 12 to 16 hours.
What gear is recommended for climbing the Complete Exum Ridge?
A standard light alpine rack with cams from fingers to 3 inches, a set of stoppers, long alpine runners, a 60-metre rope, and comfortable rock-climbing shoes.
Mountain Ascended
Grand Teton
Grand Teton is a world-famous, razor-sharp granite and gneiss peak rising abruptly to an elevation of 4,199 metres in Grand Teton National Park in northwestern Wyoming. As the highest summit in the Teton Range and the second highest peak in Wyoming, it towers more than 7,000 vertical feet above the sagebrush flats of Jackson Hole without intervening foothills. It is celebrated across mountaineering history as the birthplace of modern American technical rock climbing and client-centered mountain guiding.
Documented Expeditions on this Route (2)
Verified historical summits, siege campaigns, and pioneer attempts recorded on Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton).
1931 Glenn Exum Upper Exum Ridge Solo Ascent
On July 15, 1931, twenty-year-old Glenn Exum made an audacious solo first ascent of the Upper Exum Ridge on Grand Teton, famously leaping the Wall Street gap in football cleats.
1936 Jack Durrance Grand Teton North Ridge Direct
On August 29, 1936, Jack Durrance and Kenneth Henderson established the formidable North Ridge of the Grand Teton, introducing European piton craft to the American Rockies.
Archival Chronicles & Stories on this Route (2)
In-depth longform historical narratives, harrowing survival accounts, and firsthand alpine journals on Complete Exum Ridge Route (Grand Teton).
The Leap at Wall Street: Glenn Exum's 1931 Grand Teton Solo Breakthrough
On July 15, 1931, twenty-year-old Glenn Exum completed an audacious solo first ascent of the Upper Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. Wearing leather-cleated football shoes, Exum paced seven times before leaping across the terrifying void at Wall Street to unlock America's finest alpine rock ridge.
Shadows and Steel: Jack Durrance and the 1936 Grand Teton North Ridge
On August 29, 1936, twenty-four-year-old Jack Durrance and Kenneth Henderson conquered the intimidating North Ridge of the Grand Teton. Driving forged European pitons into hairline cracks above a three-thousand-foot abyss, they established the most difficult technical rock route in North America.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- Fifty Classic Climbs of North America(Steve Roper and Allen Steck / Sierra Club Books)
Supporting claim: Detailed selection and historical appreciation of the Complete Exum Ridge as a North American masterpiece
Accessed/Documented: 2026 - A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range(Leigh Ortenburger and Reynold G. Jackson / The Mountaineers Books)
Supporting claim: Authoritative pitch-by-pitch topo and difficulty grades for the Upper and Lower Exum Ridge
Accessed/Documented: 2026