Pasang Dawa Lama

Biographical Record & Archival Chronicle

Pasang Dawa Lama was born in 1912 in the high Khumbu region of eastern Nepal. Like many young Sherpas of his generation, he relocated to Darjeeling, India, the historic staging ground for British Himalayan exploration, where he was initiated as a Buddhist lama and began working as a high-altitude porter and guide. Endowed with extraordinary physical stamina, calm tactical judgment, and deep spiritual reverence for the sacred mountains, Pasang quickly established himself as an elite high-altitude climber.

In 1939, Pasang Dawa Lama achieved international fame on the American Karakoram Expedition to K2 led by Fritz Wiessner. Climbing without supplemental oxygen in heavy woolens and primitive nailed boots, Pasang partnered with Wiessner on a brilliant summit assault via the Abruzzi Spur. Overcoming extreme technical rock pitches, the pair climbed to 8,370 meters (27,460 ft)—just 240 meters below the virgin summit—before turning back due to falling darkness. Their 8,370-meter mark stood as the highest point reached on K2 for fifteen years until the 1954 Italian ascent.

In autumn 1954, Austrian explorer Dr. Herbert Tichy appointed Pasang Dawa Lama as Sirdar and equal climbing partner for the three-man Austrian expedition to Cho Oyu (8,188m). When an intense hurricane crippled their high camp at 7,000 meters and frostbite struck Tichy's hands, food supplies ran dangerously low. Demonstrating astonishing endurance, Pasang descended all the way to Namche Bazaar and returned with fresh porters, food, and supplies in an unbelievable three days—a round-trip journey that normally required ten days. Reinvigorated, the three climbers launched their summit bid without supplemental oxygen.

On October 19, 1954, Pasang Dawa Lama, Herbert Tichy, and Sepp Jöchler reached the broad 8,188-meter summit of Cho Oyu, marking the first time an 8,000-meter giant had been conquered during the autumn season. Four years later, on May 15, 1958, Pasang proved his mastery once again by summiting Cho Oyu a second time alongside Sonam Gyatso on the Indian Cho Oyu Expedition led by Keki Bunshah. Pasang also led pioneering attempts on Dhaulagiri I (1953, 1958, 1959) and served as mentor to generations of Sherpa mountaineers. He passed away in September 1982 in Darjeeling, forever celebrated as a foundational titan of Himalayan climbing.

Notable Milestones & Ascents

• Historic first ascent of Cho Oyu (8,188m) on October 19, 1954, alongside Herbert Tichy and Sepp Jöchler without bottled oxygen
• Summited Cho Oyu a second time on May 15, 1958, becoming the first person to summit Cho Oyu twice
• Reached 8,370 meters on K2 without supplemental oxygen with Fritz Wiessner in 1939, a world altitude record that stood for 15 years
• Completed legendary 3-day round trip between Cho Oyu Base Camp and Namche Bazaar to rescue the 1954 expedition
• Served as Sirdar on pioneering attempts of Dhaulagiri I in 1953, 1958, and 1959
• Awarded the prestigious Tiger Badge of the Himalayan Club for high-altitude valor
• Revered as one of the 'Great Three' early Sherpa titans alongside Tenzing Norgay and Ang Tharkay