Mount Kazbek
Mount Kazbek (known in Georgian as Mqinvartsveri, meaning 'Glacier Peak') is a magnificent 5,054-metre dormant stratovolcano situated in northeastern Georgia just south of the Russian border. The third-highest summit in Georgia and the second-highest volcanic cone in the Caucasus after Elbrus, Kazbek towers majestically above the town of Stepantsminda and the historic Georgian Military Highway.
Georgia
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
Peer Review: Senior Editorial Board & Historical Reviewers • Editorial Standards
Geographical Setting & Topography
Located on the Khokh Range north of the Greater Caucasus divide, Kazbek is encircled by five major glacier systems spanning 135 square kilometres, most famously the Gergeti and Devdaraki glaciers. At 4,000 metres on its southern flank lies the historic Betlemi Cave, an ancient sacred rock-cut hermitage. The peak features active geothermal hot springs and fumaroles, standing as an iconic beacon of Georgian mountain culture.
Historic First Ascent
Date: 1868-07-01
Ascent Team: Douglas William Freshfield, Adolphus Warburton Moore, Charles Comyns Tucker, François Devouassoud
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Elevation
- 5,054 m (16,581 ft)
- Topographic Prominence
- 2,353 m (7,720 ft)
- First Ascent Date
- July 1, 1868
- Primary Glacier
- Gergeti Glacier
- Base Town
- Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Kazbek rose before us like an enormous altar of white ice, dominating the gorge of the Terek.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Mqinvartsveri
- The Georgian name for Mount Kazbek, meaning Glacier Peak, reflecting its perpetual mantle of summit ice.
- Gergeti Glacier
- The principal southern valley glacier descending from Mount Kazbek, crossed by climbers on the standard ascent route.
Mount Kazbek Mountain Weather Forecast
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Mount Kazbek.
Explore Mount Kazbek (5,054 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Mount Kazbek Normal Route via Gergeti Glacier & Betlemi Hut
The historic normal route up Mount Kazbek begins from the village of Stepantsminda, passing the iconic 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church. Climbers cross the Gergeti Glacier to reach the historic Betlemi Hut (3,650 m). From the hut, the route traverses the upper glacier plateau before mounting a steep 40-degree firn slope to the 5,054-metre volcanic summit dome.
Historical Expeditions (1)
1868 Douglas Freshfield and François Devouassoud Mount Kazbek Historic First Ascent Expedition
On July 1, 1868, British alpine explorer Douglas William Freshfield, companions Adolphus Moore and Charles Tucker, and Chamonix master guide François Devouassoud completed the historic first ascent of Mount Kazbek (5,054 m) in Georgia. Traversing the Gergeti Glacier, they opened the high era of Western mountaineering in the Caucasus.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (1)
Prometheus Unbound: Douglas Freshfield and the 1868 First Ascent of Mount Kazbek
On July 1, 1868, Douglas Freshfield and François Devouassoud conquered Mount Kazbek (5,054 m), unleashing the Golden Age of Caucasian mountaineering.
Frequently Asked Questions: Mount Kazbek
What is Mount Kazbek and where is it situated?
Mount Kazbek is a glaciated 5,054-metre dormant stratovolcano in northeastern Georgia near the Russian border, towering above the town of Stepantsminda.
Who made the first ascent of Mount Kazbek?
British explorer Douglas William Freshfield, Adolphus Moore, Charles Tucker, and Chamonix guide François Devouassoud completed the first ascent on July 1, 1868.
What historic building sits on the slopes below Mount Kazbek?
The fourteenth-century Gergeti Trinity Church perches on a ridge at 2,170 metres, creating one of the most famous mountain vistas in the Caucasus.
What is Betlemi Hut on Mount Kazbek?
Betlemi Hut (the old Meteo Station) is a stone high-altitude refuge at 3,650 metres that serves as the primary base camp for climbers attempting Kazbek.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan(Douglas William Freshfield / Longmans, Green, and Co.)
Supporting claim: Firsthand expedition journal of the 1868 maiden first ascent of Mount Kazbek
Accessed/Documented: 1869 - The Exploration of the Caucasus (Volume 1)(Douglas William Freshfield / Edward Arnold)
Supporting claim: Comprehensive historical, geographical, and cultural monograph of Mount Kazbek
Accessed/Documented: 1896