Siula Grande
Siula Grande is a majestic 6,344-metre mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash of the Peruvian Andes, renowned for its sheer western precipice, knife-edge corniced ridges, and one of mountaineering's greatest survival sagas.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
Peer Review: Senior Editorial Board & Historical Reviewers • Editorial Standards
Geographical Setting & Topography
Rising in the southern section of the Cordillera Huayhuash along the continental divide between the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds, Siula Grande stands above the turquoise glacial waters of Laguna Sarapococha. The mountain is bounded by Siula Chico to the north and Yerupajá to the northwest, characterized by massive hanging glaciers, fluted ice flutings, and unstable serac barriers.
Historic First Ascent
Date: 1936-07-28
Ascent Team: Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Summit Elevation
- 6,344 m (20,814 ft)
- Prominence
- 795 m
- First Ascent
- July 28, 1936 (Schneider & Awerzger)
- West Face First Ascent
- June 8, 1985 (Simpson & Yates)
- Mountain Range
- Cordillera Huayhuash, Peruvian Andes
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Siula Grande stood out against the sky, sharp, white and deadly, its west face dropping clean away.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Fluted Ice Horn
- An alpine summit pyramid sculpted by persistent wind and freeze-thaw erosion into razor-sharp fluted gullies of hard firn.
- Alpine Lightweight Push
- Ascending high-altitude faces without fixed ropes or supplemental caches, carrying all survival necessities in backpacks.
Siula Grande Mountain Weather Forecast
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Siula Grande.
Explore Siula Grande (6,344 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Siula Grande West Face
The West Face of Siula Grande is one of the most celebrated and formidable alpine routes in South America. Rising 1,000 metres above the glacier of Laguna Sarapococha, the line tackles 80-degree water-ice flutings, fragile powder mushrooms, and vertical mixed headwalls. First climbed in June 1985 by British alpinists Joe Simpson and Simon Yates in lightweight alpine style, it became the crucible for one of mountaineering's most legendary survival epics.
Historical Expeditions (2)
1936 Schneider-Awerzger Siula Grande Historic First Ascent Expedition
On July 28, 1936, Austrian alpine legends Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger accomplished the historic first ascent of Siula Grande (6,344 m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Navigating intricate crevasse fields and knife-edge corniced ridges, Schneider and Awerzger achieved the first high-altitude triumph in this formidable and unexplored mountain range.
1985 Simpson-Yates Siula Grande West Face & Touching the Void Expedition
In June 1985, British alpinists Joe Simpson and Simon Yates completed the historic first ascent of the unclimbed 1,000-metre West Face of Siula Grande (6,344 m) in lightweight alpine style. The descent turned into mountaineering's most legendary survival drama when Simpson broke his leg, Yates was forced to cut the rope above a crevasse, and Simpson crawled for three days to safety.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (2)
First Light on Huayhuash: Schneider & Awerzger on Siula Grande
On July 28, 1936, Austrian alpine legends Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger achieved the historic first ascent of Siula Grande (6,344 m), opening a new era of exploration in the Cordillera Huayhuash.
Touching the Void: Simpson & Yates on Siula Grande's West Face
In June 1985, British alpinists Joe Simpson and Simon Yates conquered the unclimbed 1,000-metre West Face of Siula Grande (6,344 m), triggering mountaineering's greatest survival drama.
Frequently Asked Questions: Siula Grande
What is the summit elevation of Siula Grande?
Siula Grande rises to 6,344 metres (20,814 ft) in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru.
Who made the first ascent of Siula Grande?
Austrian mountaineers Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger achieved the first ascent on July 28, 1936, via the North Ridge.
Why is Siula Grande world-famous?
It is famous for the 1985 lightweight alpine-style ascent of its 1,000-metre West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, chronicled in Touching the Void.
What are the primary climbing routes on Siula Grande?
The primary routes include the 1936 North Ridge first ascent line and the 1985 Simpson-Yates West Face (ED2, 80° ice and mixed headwall).
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- Touching the Void(Joe Simpson / Jonathan Cape)
Supporting claim: Firsthand chronicle of the 1985 first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande and subsequent survival
Accessed/Documented: 1988 - Zeitschrift des Deutschen und Österreichischen Alpenvereins: Cordillera Huayhuash(DÖAV)
Supporting claim: Official expedition report and survey data for the 1936 Schneider-Awerzger first ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1937