Makalu
Makalu, at 8,485 meters (27,838 ft), is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, located 19 km southeast of Mount Everest. An isolated four-sided granite pyramid, it is known for technical knife-edge ridges, severe exposure, and punishing weather, making it one of the most challenging eight-thousanders.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Geographical Setting & Topography
Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, positioned southeast of Mount Everest on the Nepal-China border.
Historic First Ascent
Date: May 15, 1955
Ascent Team: Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy (French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco)
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Official Elevation
- 8,485 m (27,838 ft)
Topographic Survey
- Topographic Prominence
- 2,386 m
Relief Metric
- First Ascent
- May 15, 1955
Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy (French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco)
- Territory Codes
- NP / CN
Sovereignty
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“The mountains are calling, and we must honor their grandeur with truth and historical precision.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Topographic Prominence
- The vertical elevation difference between a mountain summit and the lowest contour line encircling it that contains no higher summit.
- Death Zone
- The high-altitude region above 8,000m where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life long-term.
Makalu Mountain Weather Forecast
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Makalu.
Explore Makalu (8,485 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Makalu Northwest Ridge (French Route)
The Northwest Ridge is the classic pioneering line on Makalu, first opened by the historic French expedition of 1955. From Advanced Base Camp on the Chago Glacier, climbers ascend steep snow and ice fields to gain Makalu La (7,400m), a high, wind-blasted col connecting Makalu to Kangchungtse. Above Makalu La, the route climbs through the technical French Couloir—a mixed corridor of steep ice and broken granite—before emerging onto the exposed summit crest.
Historical Expeditions (4)
1955 French Makalu Expedition
Led by Jean Franco, the 1955 French expedition achieved the historic first ascent of Makalu (8,485m) on May 15, 1955, when Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy reached the summit, followed over the next two days by every single climbing member.
2009 Simone Moro & Denis Urubko Makalu Winter First Ascent
On February 9, 2009, Italian mountaineer Simone Moro and Kazakh-Polish alpinist Denis Urubko achieved the historic first winter ascent of Makalu (8,485m), climbing via the French Route in hurricane winds and temperatures below -40°C without supplemental bottled oxygen.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day 14-Peak Odyssey
Led by former British Gurkha and Special Boat Service (SBS) operator Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja MBE, Project Possible 14/7 shattered the world speed record by summiting all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 6 months and 6 days (189 days), smashing the prior record of nearly eight years.
2019 Nirmal Purja Makalu Expedition
Nirmal Purja summited Makalu (8,485m) via the Northwest Ridge on May 24, 2019, completing an unprecedented sweep of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within 48 hours to conclude Phase One.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (4)
The Iron Winter: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko Conquer Makalu
On February 9, 2009, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko completed the historic first winter ascent of Makalu at -40°C in pure alpine style without supplemental oxygen.
Makalu 1955: The Flawless Triumph of Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
On May 15, 1955, Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy conquered the terrifying granite pyramid of Makalu (8,485m), launching a legendary three-day assault that placed all nine expedition climbers on the summit.
Makalu: Sealing the Unbelievable 48-Hour Triple Crown
Nirmal Purja completes Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu in 48 hours and 30 minutes, concluding Phase One of Project Possible.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day Himalayan Odyssey
How Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja and his Nepali team climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 189 days, redefining the boundaries of human endurance.
Frequently Asked Questions: Makalu
What is the verified elevation of Makalu?
Makalu has an official elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level.
When was Makalu first climbed?
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy (French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco).
What mountain range and territories encompass Makalu?
Makalu is situated in Sankhuwasabha District, Tibet Autonomous Region across territory codes NP, CN.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- Makalu: 8,470 Metres(Jean Franco / Jonathan Cape)
Supporting claim: Official account of the 1955 French first ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1957 - Himalayan Database(Elizabeth Hawley Archive)
Supporting claim: Verified elevation 8,485m and route details
Accessed/Documented: 2026