Dhaulagiri I
Dhaulagiri I, at 8,167 meters (26,795 ft), is the seventh-highest mountain on Earth and the highest peak situated entirely within Nepal. Rising steeply above the Kali Gandaki Gorge—the deepest gorge on Earth—opposite Annapurna, Dhaulagiri forms a staggering 7,000-meter vertical rise from the river valley.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Geographical Setting & Topography
Dhaulagiri Himal of north-central Nepal, bounded on the east by the dramatic Kali Gandaki River canyon.
Historic First Ascent
Date: May 13, 1960
Ascent Team: Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorje, Nawang Dorje (Swiss-Austrian Expedition)
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Official Elevation
- 8,167 m (26,795 ft)
Topographic Survey
- Topographic Prominence
- 3,357 m
Relief Metric
- First Ascent
- May 13, 1960
Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorje, Nawang Dorje (Swiss-Austrian Expedition)
- Territory Codes
- NP
Sovereignty
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“The mountains are calling, and we must honor their grandeur with truth and historical precision.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Topographic Prominence
- The vertical elevation difference between a mountain summit and the lowest contour line encircling it that contains no higher summit.
- Death Zone
- The high-altitude region above 8,000m where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life long-term.
Dhaulagiri I Mountain Weather Forecast
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Dhaulagiri I.
Explore Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Dhaulagiri I Northeast Ridge (Normal Route)
The Northeast Ridge is the standard climbing route on Dhaulagiri I, first ascended in 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian team. The route begins on the glaciated Mayangdi Khola valley, climbs to the Northeast Col (5,700m), and works its way up the mountain's north-northeast face. The upper section traverses steep, wind-scoured blue ice shelves below the summit rocks and negotiates a final, exposed couloir leading directly to the 8,167m summit.
Historical Expeditions (4)
1960 Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
The landmark Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Max Eiselin that achieved the maiden first ascent of Dhaulagiri I (8,167m) via the Northeast Ridge without bottled oxygen on May 13, 1960.
1999 Tomaž Humar Dhaulagiri South Face Solo Expedition
In October and November 1999, Slovenian alpinist Tomaž Humar made world mountaineering history by completing an audacious solo first ascent of the terrifying 4,000-meter South Face of Dhaulagiri I (8,167m) without supplemental oxygen in a nine-day push.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day 14-Peak Odyssey
Led by former British Gurkha and Special Boat Service (SBS) operator Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja MBE, Project Possible 14/7 shattered the world speed record by summiting all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 6 months and 6 days (189 days), smashing the prior record of nearly eight years.
2019 Nirmal Purja Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Nirmal Purja conquered Dhaulagiri I (8,167m) via the Northeast Ridge on May 12, 2019, battling sustained hurricane-force winds and complete whiteout conditions to secure the second summit of Project Possible.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (4)
The Third Eye: Tomaž Humar's Audacious Solo of Dhaulagiri South Face
In October 1999, Slovenian visionary Tomaž Humar spent nine solitary days ascending the lethal 4,000-meter South Face of Dhaulagiri without oxygen or ropes, creating the climb of the decade.
Dhaulagiri 1960: The Swiss-Austrian Conquest of the White Mountain
On May 13, 1960, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, and Sherpas Nyima Dorje and Nawang Dorje conquered Dhaulagiri I (8,167m) via the Northeast Ridge without bottled oxygen, following the crash of their legendary glacier airplane 'Yeti'.
Dhaulagiri I: Summiting the White Mountain in a Tempest
How Nirmal Purja and his Nepali team fought 70-knot summit winds and blinding whiteouts to conquer Dhaulagiri I.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day Himalayan Odyssey
How Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja and his Nepali team climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 189 days, redefining the boundaries of human endurance.
Frequently Asked Questions: Dhaulagiri I
What is the verified elevation of Dhaulagiri I?
Dhaulagiri I has an official elevation of 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level.
When was Dhaulagiri I first climbed?
Dhaulagiri I was first summited on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorje, Nawang Dorje (Swiss-Austrian Expedition).
What mountain range and territories encompass Dhaulagiri I?
Dhaulagiri I is situated in Myagdi District, Gandaki Province across territory codes NP.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- The Mountain World(Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research)
Supporting claim: Account of the 1960 Swiss-Austrian Dhaulagiri first ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1961 - Himalayan Database(Elizabeth Hawley Archive)
Supporting claim: Verified elevation 8,167m and relief measurements
Accessed/Documented: 2026