Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,035 meters (26,362 ft), is the thirteenth-highest mountain on Earth and the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif in the Karakoram. Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier on the Pakistan-China frontier, it features a classic pyramidal profile with challenging ice couloirs.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Geographical Setting & Topography
Gasherbrum Group, Baltoro Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram, situated directly above the upper Baltoro Glacier in Gilgit-Baltistan.
Historic First Ascent
Date: July 7, 1956
Ascent Team: Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart (Austrian Karakoram Expedition)
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Official Elevation
- 8,035 m (26,362 ft)
Rank #13 in the World
- Topographic Prominence
- 1,524 m
Karakoram High Massif
- First Ascent Date
- July 7, 1956
Austrian Karakoram Expedition
- Geographic Location
- Gilgit-Baltistan (PK) / Xinjiang (CN)
Baltoro Muztagh
- Standard Route
- Southwest Ridge (Banana Ridge)
Normal Route
- First Alpine-Style Double
- July 24, 1982
Messner, Sabir & Sher Khan
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Gasherbrum II showed us that speed, minimalism, and deep trust between partners could overcome the greatest altitudes on Earth without the weight of an army.”
“When we stood on Gasherbrum II after pushing in alpine style, we realized human endurance in the Karakoram had entered a new era.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Banana Ridge
- A prominent curving rock and blue-ice rib between 6,400m and 6,900m on Gasherbrum II, serving as the technical mixed gateway to the high plateau.
- Gasherbrum Cwm
- An elevated glacial valley nestled at 5,900 meters between Gasherbrum I, II, and III, acting as the high base plateau for summit attempts across the massif.
- Gasherbrum ("Shining Wall")
- Originating from the Balti words "rgasha" (beautiful) and "brum" (mountain), commonly translated as "Shining Wall" referencing the sheer, reflective face of Gasherbrum IV.
Gasherbrum II Mountain Weather Forecast
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Target Elevation: 8,035 mSafe summit ridge climbing requires gusts below 40 km/h.
Evaluating thermal loss...
Tracking glacial freezing boundary...
Assessing whiteout and cloud immersion hazards...
High-altitude snow glare requires Category 4 glacier glasses to prevent snow blindness.
Evaluating oxygen partial pressure...
Detailed 14-Day Summit Window & Weather Timeline
Explore day-by-day summit push safety windows, wind shear analysis, and extended multi-day forecasts for Gasherbrum II.
Explore Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) in Interactive 3D
Inspect steep glacial walls, hanging seracs, ridge approaches, and elevation relief with 360° rotation and terrain tilt in WebGL.
Documented Climbing Routes (1)
Southwest Ridge (Normal Route)
The Southwest Ridge is the standard and historically celebrated route on Gasherbrum II (8,035m). Starting from the South Gasherbrum Glacier, climbers navigate the heavily crevassed lower icefall into the Gasherbrum Cwm before tackling the technical crux of the route: the steep mixed snow and ice crest known as the Banana Ridge. Above Camp III, the route traverses expansive snow basins into the Death Zone, making a final push up a delicate diagonal couloir to the summit. First climbed in 1956 by an Austrian team, and completed in rapid alpine style in 1982 by Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Sher Khan.
Historical Expeditions (6)
1956 Austrian Karakoram Expedition to Gasherbrum II
The landmark Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec that achieved the maiden first ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035m) via the Southwest Ridge without supplemental oxygen on July 7, 1956.
1982 Messner-Sabir Karakoram Alpine Traverse
Revolutionary lightweight expedition with Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Sher Khan, summiting Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak within 9 days without oxygen.
1985 Little Karim Gasherbrum II Expedition
In summer 1985, legendary Balti high-altitude porter Mohammad Karim (Little Karim) from Hushe defied all physical expectations by summiting Gasherbrum II (8,035m) without supplemental bottled oxygen, cementing his status as an immortal icon of the Karakoram.
2011 Gasherbrum II Winter First Ascent Expedition
On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards completed the historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035m), achieving the very first winter conquest of an eight-thousander in Pakistan and the Karakoram range in extreme conditions.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day 14-Peak Odyssey
Led by former British Gurkha and Special Boat Service (SBS) operator Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja MBE, Project Possible 14/7 shattered the world speed record by summiting all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 6 months and 6 days (189 days), smashing the prior record of nearly eight years.
2019 Nirmal Purja Gasherbrum II Speed Ascent
Nirmal Purja summited Gasherbrum II (8,035m) via the Southwest Ridge on July 18, 2019, completing a blistering 72-hour double ascent across the rugged Gasherbrum massif.
Summit Chronicles & Stories (6)
The Iron Porter of Hushe: Little Karim's Oxygenless Ascent of Gasherbrum II
In summer 1985, five-foot-tall Balti high-altitude porter Mohammad Karim conquered Gasherbrum II (8,035m) without bottled oxygen, establishing the immortal legacy of Balti mountaineers.
Cold: The Historic First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards made history with the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, surviving a near-fatal avalanche on descent.
Gasherbrum II 1956: The Austrian Conquest of the Shining Mountain
On July 7, 1956, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart conquered the formidable Southwest Ridge of Gasherbrum II (8,035m), triumphing without supplemental oxygen over lost depots, shattered seracs, and the razor crest of the Banana Ridge.
1982 Karakoram Double: The Messner-Sabir Alpine Blitz
How Reinhold Messner and Nazir Sabir climbed Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak in lightweight alpine style within one week in 1982.
Gasherbrum II: The 72-Hour Karakoram Double-Header Climb
Nirmal Purja summits Gasherbrum II just 72 hours after Gasherbrum I, maintaining fierce momentum across the Karakoram.
Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day Himalayan Odyssey
How Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja and his Nepali team climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 189 days, redefining the boundaries of human endurance.
Frequently Asked Questions: Gasherbrum II
What is the official height and global rank of Gasherbrum II?
Gasherbrum II stands at an official elevation of 8,035 meters (26,362 feet) above sea level, ranking as the 13th highest mountain in the world and the 5th highest in Pakistan.
Is Gasherbrum II considered the easiest 8,000-meter peak to climb?
Gasherbrum II is often categorized by mountaineers as one of the most accessible 8,000-meter peaks due to a lower objective avalanche hazard on its Southwest Ridge compared to K2 or Nanga Parbat. However, it still entails severe Death Zone hypoxia, deep crevasses in the Gasherbrum Icefall, and unpredictable Karakoram blizzards.
What is the Banana Ridge on Gasherbrum II and why is it famous?
The Banana Ridge is a curved, knife-edge mixed ice and rock spur between 6,400m and 6,900m on the Southwest Ridge. It represents the primary technical climbing crux of the normal route, demanding sustained 55-degree ice climbing and fixed ropes before entering the upper snow bowl.
When was Gasherbrum II first climbed and by whom?
Gasherbrum II was first ascended on July 7, 1956, by Austrian climbers Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart as part of an Austrian expedition led by Moravec via the Southwest Ridge.
How did Reinhold Messner and Nazir Sabir climb Gasherbrum II in 1982?
On July 24, 1982, Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Col. Sher Khan summited Gasherbrum II in pure alpine style without supplemental oxygen. Just nine days later on August 2, 1982, the trio scaled Broad Peak back-to-back, establishing one of the most celebrated lightweight Karakoram achievements in climbing history.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- Weisse Berge, Schwarze Menschen(Fritz Moravec / Oesterreichischer Bundesverlag)
Supporting claim: Official chronicle of the 1956 Austrian first ascent of Gasherbrum II
Accessed/Documented: 1958 - American Alpine Journal: 1982 Karakoram Expeditions(American Alpine Club)
Supporting claim: Documentation of the Messner-Sabir-Khan alpine style ascent
Accessed/Documented: 1983