Alex Txikon
Alex Txikon (born 1981) is a renowned Basque-Spanish high-altitude mountaineer celebrated for making the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016 alongside Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro. A specialist in extreme winter Himalayan expeditions without supplemental oxygen, Txikon also conquered Manaslu in winter in January 2023, establishing himself among the premier cold-weather alpinists of the modern era.
Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.
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Biographical Record & Archival Chronicle
Alejandro Txikon Martínez was born on December 12, 1981, in Lemoa, Biscay, in the Basque Country of northern Spain. The youngest of thirteen siblings, he was introduced to the mountains of the Basque Country in early childhood. At just twenty-one years of age, he made his Himalayan debut in 2003 on Broad Peak (8,051m) as a high-altitude cameraman and climber with Edurne Pasaban. Over the next decade, Txikon climbed eleven eight-thousanders, demonstrating phenomenal physical endurance and technical rock and ice capability.
Inspired by the legendary Polish Ice Warriors of the 1980s, Txikon dedicated himself to the ultimate frontier of high-altitude alpinism: climbing eight-thousanders in astronomical winter without supplemental bottled oxygen. In winter 2011 and 2012, he launched daring winter assaults on Gasherbrum I. In winter 2015, he turned his sights toward Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the infamous 'Killer Mountain'. On February 26, 2016, teaming up with Pakistani climber Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Italian winter master Simone Moro, Txikon reached the summit of Nanga Parbat via the Kinshofer Route, achieving one of the greatest first winter ascents in mountaineering history.
Txikon subsequently led ambitious, purist winter expeditions to Mount Everest and K2, constructing innovative igloo base camps to endure hurricane winds. On January 6, 2023, Txikon achieved another historic milestone by summiting Manaslu (8,163m) in astronomical winter without supplemental bottled oxygen, climbing from Base Camp to the summit in an astonishing sixty hours. Txikon is revered worldwide for his commitment to traditional fair-means alpine ethics and his deep solidarity with high-altitude mountain communities.
Notable Milestones & Ascents
- Achieved the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) on February 26, 2016, with Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro
- Completed the first pure winter ascent of Manaslu (8,163m) on January 6, 2023, without supplemental bottled oxygen
- Summited eleven of the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks
- Pioneered the strategic use of snow igloos at Himalayan base camps for extreme wind and thermal protection
- Led international winter attempts on Mount Everest and K2 strictly adhering to fair-means alpine style
- Honored with international sports awards and recognized as a leading figure of contemporary Basque mountaineering
Key Statistics & Topographic Figures
- Lifespan
- Born December 12, 1981
Lemoa, Biscay, Basque Country, Spain
- First Winter Nanga Parbat
- February 26, 2016 (8,126m)
With Ali Sadpara & Simone Moro
- Manaslu Winter Speed
- 60 Hours Base to Summit
January 6, 2023 (Without Supplemental Oxygen)
- Total 8,000m Summits
- 11 Peaks Summited
Himalaya & Karakoram Expeditions
- Base Camp Innovation
- High-Altitude Snow Igloos
Thermal Protection in -40°C Winter Gales
Archival Primary Source Quotations
“Winter strips away everything superficial; in the cold, you find the raw truth of why we climb.”
Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts
- Astronomical Winter Climbing
- The strict mountaineering standard of conducting an entire expedition between the winter solstice (December 21) and the spring equinox (March 21).
- Himalayan Snow Igloo
- A specialized dome shelter carved from hard-packed snow blocks at base camps to withstand 100 km/h winds and maintain sub-zero warmth.
Frequently Asked Questions: Alex Txikon
Who is Alex Txikon and what historic winter ascents has he made?
Alex Txikon is a Basque mountaineer who achieved the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (2016) and pure winter ascent of Manaslu (2023).
When did Alex Txikon make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat?
He summited Nanga Parbat on February 26, 2016, alongside Pakistani hero Ali Sadpara and Italian winter master Simone Moro.
How fast did Alex Txikon climb Manaslu in winter 2023?
Txikon climbed from Base Camp to the 8,163-metre summit of Manaslu in a lightning sixty-hour continuous push on January 6, 2023.
Did Alex Txikon use supplemental bottled oxygen on Manaslu in winter?
No, Txikon climbed strictly without the use of supplemental bottled oxygen, achieving a pure astronomical winter ascent.
What innovative base camp shelter does Alex Txikon construct on winter expeditions?
Txikon constructs traditional Inuit-style snow igloos, providing superior thermal insulation and protection against hurricane winds.
How many 8,000-metre peaks has Alex Txikon summited?
Txikon has summited eleven of the world’s fourteen 8,000-metre peaks across the Himalaya and Karakoram.
At what age did Alex Txikon begin climbing eight-thousanders?
He made his Himalayan debut on Broad Peak in 2003 at age twenty-one as a high-altitude cameraman for Edurne Pasaban.
What other major peaks has Alex Txikon attempted in winter?
He has led ambitious, fair-means winter expeditions to Mount Everest, K2, and Gasherbrum I without supplemental bottled oxygen.
Associated Summits (9)
K2
K2, at 8,611 meters (28,251 ft), is the second-highest mountain on Earth and widely regarded as the most technically demanding and lethal 8,000-meter peak. Located in the heart of the Karakoram on the border between Pakistan and China, K2 is characterized by sheer relief, severe weather anomalies, and persistent objective hazards including the notorious Bottleneck couloir.
Makalu
Makalu, at 8,485 meters (27,838 ft), is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, located 19 km southeast of Mount Everest. An isolated four-sided granite pyramid, it is known for technical knife-edge ridges, severe exposure, and punishing weather, making it one of the most challenging eight-thousanders.
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu, at 8,188 meters (26,864 ft), is the sixth-highest mountain in the world, situated 20 km west of Mount Everest. Meaning 'Turquoise Goddess' in Tibetan, it stands on the glaciated Nangpa La trade route between Nepal and Tibet. Its moderate northwest slopes make it the most accessible 8,000-meter peak.
Dhaulagiri I
Dhaulagiri I, at 8,167 meters (26,795 ft), is the seventh-highest mountain on Earth and the highest peak situated entirely within Nepal. Rising steeply above the Kali Gandaki Gorge—the deepest gorge on Earth—opposite Annapurna, Dhaulagiri forms a staggering 7,000-meter vertical rise from the river valley.
Manaslu
Manaslu, at 8,163 meters (26,781 ft), is the eighth-highest mountain in the world, situated in the Mansiri Himal of west-central Nepal. Known as the 'Mountain of the Spirit', its long ridges and valley glaciers offer dramatic topography culminating in a delicate, exposed knife-edge summit crest.
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat, at 8,126 meters (26,660 ft), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and the western anchor of the Himalayas in Pakistan. It boasts the Rupal Face, the highest vertical precipice in the world at 4,600 meters from valley floor to summit. Known for profound climbing history, highlighted by Hermann Buhl's legendary solo summit without supplemental oxygen in 1953.
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I, at 8,068 meters (26,470 ft), is the eleventh-highest mountain in the world. Named 'Hidden Peak' by explorer William Martin Conway due to its concealment behind surrounding Karakoram giants, it stands on the border between Pakistan and China. The peak was first climbed in 1958 by an American team led by Nick Clinch, and in 1992 Nazir Sabir summited it with Rajab Shah and Mehrban Shah, marking his fourth Pakistani eight-thousander.
Broad Peak
Broad Peak, at 8,051 meters (26,414 ft), is the twelfth-highest mountain in the world. Located in the Karakoram directly across the Godwin-Austen Glacier from K2, it is famous for its 1.5-kilometre-long summit crest. First climbed in lightweight alpine style without supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters in 1957 by an Austrian team.
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,035 meters (26,362 ft), is the thirteenth-highest mountain on Earth and the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif in the Karakoram. Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier on the Pakistan-China frontier, it features a classic pyramidal profile with challenging ice couloirs. First summited in 1956 by an Austrian team, it was famously climbed in pure alpine style in 1982 by Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Sher Khan.
Pioneered & Associated Routes (14)
Abruzzi Spur (Southeast Ridge)
The Abruzzi Spur is the most famous and frequently climbed route on K2, tracing the mountain's steep southeast ridge from the Godwin-Austen Glacier to the summit. First explored in 1909 by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, it was successfully climbed to the summit in 1954 by an Italian team. The route requires extreme physical endurance and high-grade technical climbing on rock, ice, and mixed terrain through legendary cruxes like House's Chimney, the Black Pyramid, and the Bottleneck couloir.
Normal Route (West Ridge & Northwest Face)
The Normal Route on Broad Peak ascends the rugged western spur from the Godwin-Austen Glacier, navigating steep mixed rock ribs before entering the upper glacial basin beneath the high saddle (the Col). From the Col at 7,800 meters, climbers enter the Death Zone to tackle the long, corniced summit ridge leading across the Foresummit to the true summit at 8,051 meters. First conquered in 1957 by an Austrian team in lightweight alpine style without bottled oxygen, and climbed in 1982 by Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Sher Khan in a groundbreaking rapid alpine push.
Cho Oyu Northwest Face & Ridge (Normal Route)
The Northwest Ridge is the standard and most climbed route on Cho Oyu, approached from the Tibetan plateau via the Gyabrag Glacier. First climbed in 1954 by an Austrian expedition, the route features relatively moderate snow slopes of 30 to 40 degrees, punctuated by a single prominent technical crux known as the Ice Cliff at 6,700m. Above Camp 3, climbers cross the Yellow Band and emerge onto a vast, gently rising summit plateau.
Dhaulagiri I Northeast Ridge (Normal Route)
The Northeast Ridge is the standard climbing route on Dhaulagiri I, first ascended in 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian team. The route begins on the glaciated Mayangdi Khola valley, climbs to the Northeast Col (5,700m), and works its way up the mountain's north-northeast face. The upper section traverses steep, wind-scoured blue ice shelves below the summit rocks and negotiates a final, exposed couloir leading directly to the 8,167m summit.
Northwest Face & Japanese Couloir (Normal Route)
The Northwest Face via the Japanese Couloir is the standard and most frequently climbed line on Gasherbrum I (8,068m / Hidden Peak). Starting from the South Gasherbrum Glacier, climbers traverse the shared lower icefall into the Gasherbrum Cwm, then branch southward toward the forbidding northwest wall. The technical centerpiece is the Japanese Couloir—a sustained 50 to 60-degree gully of hard blue ice and shattered rock leading to the high col and summit slopes. First ascended in 1958 by Americans Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman via the South Ridge, the Japanese Couloir line became the modern benchmark, climbed rapidly in 1992 by Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah, and Mehrban Shah.
Southwest Ridge (Normal Route)
The Southwest Ridge is the standard and historically celebrated route on Gasherbrum II (8,035m). Starting from the South Gasherbrum Glacier, climbers navigate the heavily crevassed lower icefall into the Gasherbrum Cwm before tackling the technical crux of the route: the steep mixed snow and ice crest known as the Banana Ridge. Above Camp III, the route traverses expansive snow basins into the Death Zone, making a final push up a delicate diagonal couloir to the summit. First climbed in 1956 by an Austrian team, and completed in rapid alpine style in 1982 by Reinhold Messner, Nazir Sabir, and Sher Khan.
K2 South Face (The Polish Line)
The Polish Line on the South Face of K2 (8,611m) is widely regarded as one of the most perilous and audacious routes ever climbed in high-altitude mountaineering history. Tackling the direct 3,200-meter wall between the Abruzzi Spur and the Magic Line (South-Southwest Pillar), the route ascends through a chaotic labyrinth of hanging seracs, avalanche funnels, and vertical rock bands. Pioneered in alpine style over five harrowing days in July 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski without supplemental oxygen, Reinhold Messner famously dubbed it 'suicidal'. Kukuczka and Piotrowski reached the summit on July 8, but tragedy struck during their desperate descent via the Abruzzi Spur when Piotrowski lost both crampons and plunged to his death. To this day, the Polish Line remains unrepeated.
West Ridge (Japanese Route)
The West Ridge of K2 is one of the most formidable and sustained technical lines in high-altitude mountaineering. Pioneered in August 1981 by a joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition, it ascends directly from the Savoia Glacier along the exposed western crest before negotiating the severe Southwest Face directly into the Death Zone. Demanding immense commitment, it was first completed by Pakistani mountaineer Nazir Sabir and Japanese climber Eiho Ohtani after an epic bivouac near 8,500 meters.
Kinshofer Route (Diamir Face)
The Kinshofer Route is the standard climbing route up the Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat's western side. First climbed in 1962 by German mountaineer Toni Kinshofer and his teammates, it is famous for its early vertical crux, the Kinshofer Wall, which sits low on the mountain between Camp I and Camp II. Once past the wall, climbers face a massive glaciated amphitheater leading up into the freezing upper Bazhin Basin and summit shoulder.
Makalu Northwest Ridge (French Route)
The Northwest Ridge is the classic pioneering line on Makalu, first opened by the historic French expedition of 1955. From Advanced Base Camp on the Chago Glacier, climbers ascend steep snow and ice fields to gain Makalu La (7,400m), a high, wind-blasted col connecting Makalu to Kangchungtse. Above Makalu La, the route climbs through the technical French Couloir—a mixed corridor of steep ice and broken granite—before emerging onto the exposed summit crest.
Manaslu Northeast Face (Normal Route)
The Northeast Face is the standard route on Manaslu, first forged in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. Ascending from the Manaslu Glacier above the village of Samagaon, the route climbs through an active, heavily crevassed icefall between Camps 1 and 2, traverses wide snow plateaus up to Camp 4, and culminates in a delicate, exposed knife-edge snow arête leading to the true summit pin.
Mazeno Ridge Complete Traverse
The Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat is widely considered the longest and most demanding high-altitude ridge on any eight-thousander, stretching an unbelievable 10 kilometres in length and traversing eight subsidiary peaks exceeding 7,000 metres before meeting the final summit pyramid. Long dubbed the last great problem of the Western Himalaya, it defeated numerous elite expeditions over three decades until British veterans Sandy Allan and Rick Allen completed the first full integral traverse and summit push in pure alpine style over eighteen heroic days in July 2012.
Central Pillar of the Rupal Face Direct
The Central Pillar of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat is the greatest vertical mountain wall on Earth, rising an astounding 4,100 metres from the Rupal Valley floor to the 8,126-metre summit. First attempted over decades, it was conquered in pure, lightweight alpine style between September 1 and 8, 2005, by American alpinists Steve House and Vince Anderson without fixed ropes, high camps, or supplemental oxygen, earning them the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Rakhiot Flank & East Ridge (Original 1953 Route)
The historic original route on Nanga Parbat (8,126m), ascending from the Rakhiot Glacier over the heavily crevassed Rakhiot Icefall to reach the colossal Silbersattel (Silver Saddle) at 7,450 meters. From the saddle, the route traverses an immense high snow plateau for over three kilometers before negotiating the Bazhin Gap and climbing steep mixed rock ribs up the summit pyramid. Immortalized by Hermann Buhl's epic 41-hour solo summit without supplemental oxygen in July 1953.
Documented Expeditions (1)
2023 Alex Txikon Manaslu Winter Expedition
On January 6, 2023, Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon and a team of six Sherpa climbers conquered Manaslu (8,163m) in astronomical winter without supplemental bottled oxygen, climbing from Base Camp to the true summit in an astonishing sixty hours.
Associated Chronicles & Stories (2)
The Winter Express: Alex Txikon Conquers Manaslu in 60 Hours
On January 6, 2023, Basque winter specialist Alex Txikon and six Sherpa companions conquered Manaslu in astronomical winter without oxygen, executing a blistering 60-hour sprint.
The Coldest Conquest: Muhammad Ali Sadpara and the Historic 2016 Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
On February 26, 2016, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon, and Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) at -45°C, conquering one of mountaineering's greatest winter frontiers.
Documented Sources & Archival Citations
- American Alpine Journal: Nanga Parbat, First Winter Ascent by Alex Txikon(American Alpine Club)
Supporting claim: Official climb report verifying the February 26, 2016 first winter summit of Nanga Parbat
Accessed/Documented: 2017 - La Montaña Desnuda (The Naked Mountain)(Alex Txikon / Editorial Desnivel)
Supporting claim: First-person account of winter struggles, temperatures below -40°C, and the Nanga Parbat triumph
Accessed/Documented: 2020