Standard / Normal RouteAlpine V, Scottish II snow/ice, 45Β° to 50Β° sustained terrain

South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)

The South Col Route along the Southeast Ridge is the historic path of the 1953 first ascent and the most popular route on Mount Everest. Starting from Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier in Nepal, climbers navigate the shifting seracs of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm.

Country: Nepal
Region: Khumbu / Mahalangur Himal
Elevation Gain: 3,485 m
Best Window: Late April to Late May (Spring Pre-Monsoon)
South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) climbing route on Mount Everest
πŸ”οΈ Mount Everest(8,849 m)

Ascent line, technical cruxes & camp topography profile for South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)

Elevation Gain: +3,485 m
Editorially Verified
Historical Reference Record

Mountain Safety & Conditions Disclaimer: High-altitude climbing, glacial travel, and technical ascents entail severe objective risks including avalanches, serac collapses, rapid weather collapse, and altitude illness. Historical route descriptions and summit claims on Mountanity reflect documented archival sources and must not be used as live operational safety assessments. Local regulations, permits, and physical glacial topography change continuously.

Peer Review: Senior Editorial Board & Historical Reviewers β€’ Editorial Standards

Published:
Verified:

Tactical & Camp Notes

Nearly all ascents take place in late May when the jet stream shifts north. Supplemental oxygen is standard above Camp 3 (7,200m) and mandatory for commercial safety above the South Col.

Identified Objective Hazards

  • β€’Unpredictable ice collapse and serac falls inside the active Khumbu Icefall
  • β€’Extreme hypoxia and fatal altitude illnesses in the Death Zone above 8,000 meters
  • β€’Hurricane-force jet stream winds and sudden sub-zero blizzard anomalies
  • β€’Human bottlenecks and dangerous hypothermia delays along the Hillary Step
Prerequisite Experience: Demonstrated ascents of 7,000m and 8,000m peaks, expert crampon techniques on 50Β° ice, and proven psychological stamina under extreme altitude stress.

Historical Context

Reconnoitered from Nepal in 1951 by Eric Shipton and pushed to 8,600m by a Swiss team in 1952. First completed to the summit on May 29, 1953, by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

Expedition Route & Elevation Planner

Interactive Elevation Profile

Vertical profile, technical cruxes, and camp staging progression for South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) on Mount Everest.

Vertical Gain+3,485 m
Summit Altitude8,849 m
Technical Cruxes3 Documented
Base Staging5,364 m
5364m6235m7107m7978m8849m⚠️ DEATH ZONE (8,000m)C1C2C3C4C5C6C7C8
Everest Base Camp
5,364 m (17,598 ft)

Located on the shifting moraine of the Khumbu Glacier below the icefall. Central logistics hub with medical facilities and weather monitoring.

⚠️
Historical Mountaineering Record Notice:Displayed routes, elevation curves, and waypoints are historical archival records and should not be used as operational turn-by-turn mountaineering GPS navigation. High-altitude glacial terrain changes continuously due to crevasse movement, hanging serac collapse, and shifting avalanche tracks.
Elevation Profile & Crux Breakdown

Camp-by-Camp Topography

Key staging altitudes, technical cruxes, and terrain transitions for South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route).

1

Everest Base Camp

5,364 m (17,598 ft)

Located on the shifting moraine of the Khumbu Glacier below the icefall. Central logistics hub with medical facilities and weather monitoring.

2

Camp I

6,065 m (19,898 ft)

Positioned on the open snow terrace at the mouth of the Western Cwm, just above the maze of crevasses in the Khumbu Icefall.

Key Crux: Khumbu Icefall (shifting ice towers and gaping crevasses)
3

Camp II (Advanced Base Camp)

6,400 m (20,997 ft)

Pitched along lateral moraines in the upper Western Cwm, surrounded by the soaring faces of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse.

4

Camp III (Lhotse Face)

7,300 m (23,950 ft)

Carved into platforms on the steep blue ice slopes of the Lhotse Face. Climbers use fixed ropes and begin supplemental oxygen here.

Key Crux: Lhotse Face (1,125m wall of 45Β° to 50Β° hard blue ice)
5

Camp IV (South Col)

7,925 m (26,001 ft)

A wind-scoured col between Everest and Lhotse entering the Death Zone. The staging ground for midnight summit bids.

6

The Balcony & South Summit

8,400 m (27,559 ft)Death Zone

A small snow platform along the Southeast Ridge where summit teams rest, swap oxygen bottles, and watch sunrise over Tibet.

7

The Hillary Step

8,790 m (28,839 ft)Death Zone

A 12-meter vertical rock and snow prow along the narrow crest, requiring delicate crampon footing over tremendous drop-offs.

Key Crux: Hillary Step (12m rock/snow prow on exposed knife-edge ridge)
8

Everest True Summit

8,849 m (29,032 ft)Death Zone

A small snow dome crowning the highest point on Earth, straddling the border between Nepal and Tibet (China).

Geographic Coordinates & Cartography

Topographic Location & Terrain Map

Cartographic datum, massif coordinates, and terrain context for South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) on Mount Everest.

Coordinates27Β°59β€²17β€³ N, 86Β°55β€²30β€³ E
Summit Altitude8,849 m (29,032 ft)
Country / BoundaryNepal
Mountain Range / SectorKhumbu / Mahalangur Himal

Interactive Topographic Terrain Map

Click below to load live cartographic contours, glacier approaches, and geographic markers for Mount Everest (27Β°59β€²17β€³ N, 86Β°55β€²30β€³ E).

Experience Mount Everest in Interactive 3D WebGL (Copernicus DEM)
Verified Topographic Data

Key Statistics & Topographic Figures

Route Type
Standard / Normal Route

Topography

Technical Difficulty
Extremely Demanding / Grade V, AD+

Alpine V, Scottish II snow/ice, 45Β° to 50Β° sustained terrain

Country / Region
Nepal (Khumbu / Mahalangur Himal)

Location

Historical Evidence & First-Hand Accounts

Archival Primary Source Quotations

“A mountain route is not merely a path of rock and ice; it is a test of human endurance, judgment, and humility.”

β€” Alpine Exploration Journal (2026)Source: Mountanity Route Archives
Domain Glossary & Definitions

Defined Alpine Terminology & Concepts

Crux
The most difficult and technically demanding pitch or section of a climbing route.
Normal Route (Voie Normale)
The most frequently climbed, least technical, and historically standard path to a mountain summit.
Citability & Knowledge Retrieval

Frequently Asked Questions: South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)

What is the climbing difficulty and grade of South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)?

South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) on mount-everest is graded as Extremely Demanding / Grade V, AD+, with technical climbing requirements including Alpine V, Scottish II snow/ice, 45Β° to 50Β° sustained terrain.

What are the primary hazards on the South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)?

Climbers on South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) must navigate severe objective hazards including Unpredictable ice collapse and serac falls inside the active Khumbu Icefall, Extreme hypoxia and fatal altitude illnesses in the Death Zone above 8,000 meters, Hurricane-force jet stream winds and sudden sub-zero blizzard anomalies, Human bottlenecks and dangerous hypothermia delays along the Hillary Step.

What camps are established on South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)?

South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route) typically features 8 staging camps, progressing from Everest Base Camp (5364m) up toward the summit.

Mountain Ascended

Snow-blown summit pyramid of Mount Everest towering above the Khumbu Glacier.
🚩 18 Expeditions
8,849 m
First Ascent: May 29, 1953πŸ§— 3 Routes

Mount Everest

Mount Everest is the highest mountain above sea level on Earth, standing at an official elevation of 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 ft). Straddling the international frontier between Nepal and China, it is known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepali ('Goddess of the Sky') and Chomolungma in Tibetan ('Mother Goddess of the World'). The peak rises into the extreme upper troposphere, where oxygen levels drop to barely one-third of sea-level pressure. Climbers face hurricane-force jet stream winds, severe frostbite conditions, shifting ice crevasses in the Khumbu Icefall, and the dangerous Death Zone above 8,000 meters.

Explore Peak & Routes

Documented Expeditions on this Route (31)

Verified historical summits, siege campaigns, and pioneer attempts recorded on South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route).

Showing 1–4 of 31
Eric Shipton's iconic 1951 photograph of the Yeti footprint on the Menlung Glacier with his ice axe alongside for scale.
Pioneered Southern Route via Khumbu Icefall & Western CwmπŸ§— Ang Tharkay +2

1951 British Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition

The pivotal 1951 reconnaissance expedition led by Eric Shipton and featuring Edmund Hillary that entered the newly opened Solukhumbu region of Nepal, conquered the chaotic Khumbu Icefall, and discovered the viable southern highway to Mount Everest's summit.

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The towering south face and summit pyramid of Lhotse rising above Chhukung.
Historic First Ascent of Lhotse & 2nd/3rd Ascents of Mount EverestπŸ§— Ernst Reiss +1
πŸ”οΈ LhotseπŸ“… 1956-05-18

1956 Swiss Mount Everest and Lhotse Expedition

Organized by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, this celebrated expedition made the first ascent of Lhotse (8,516m) on May 18, 1956, when Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger conquered the Lhotse Couloir, followed days later by Swiss summits on Mount Everest.

Read Expedition Report
Mount Everest with the dramatic profile of the West Ridge ascending into the sky.
First American Ascent of Mount Everest (Jim Whittaker & Nawang Gombu) and Historic First West Ridge Traverse (Hornbein & Unsoeld)πŸ§— Jim Whittaker +1
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1963-05-01

1963 Historic American Mount Everest Expedition: South Col and West Ridge Traverse

In May 1963, the American Mount Everest Expedition achieved historic triumphs as Jim Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest, followed by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld's legendary West Ridge traverse.

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Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy celebrating in Base Camp following the historic first winter ascent of Mount Everest on February 17, 1980.
Historic First Winter Ascent of Mount Everest & Any 8000m PeakπŸ§— Andrzej Zawada +3
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1980-02-17

1980 Polish Mount Everest Winter Expedition

The monumental 1979–1980 Polish winter expedition organized by Andrzej Zawada in which Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy stood on the summit of Mount Everest on February 17, 1980, achieving the first winter ascent of an 8,000-meter peak in human history at temperatures below -40Β°C.

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The sheer north face of Mount Everest rising dramatically above Tibet with route lines marked.
First American Ascent of Mount Everest via the North Col and Great Couloir from TibetπŸ§— Lou Whittaker
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1984-10-20

1984 First American Ascent of Mount Everest North Col by Lou Whittaker's Expedition

In October 1984, expedition leader Lou Whittaker guided the American team to the first American ascent of Mount Everest via the Great Couloir and North Col from Tibet, placing Phil Ershler on the summit.

Read Expedition Report
Archival photograph of Marc Batard standing on the summit of Mount Everest following his historic 22-hour 29-minute speed ascent.
World Record: First Ascent of Mount Everest in Under 24 Hours Without Bottled Oxygen (22h 29m)πŸ§— Marc Batard
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1988-09-26

1988 Marc Batard Mount Everest 22-Hour Solo Speed Ascent

On September 25–26, 1988, French speed alpinist Marc Batard made world history by climbing Mount Everest from Base Camp to the summit in just 22 hours and 29 minutes in a continuous solo push without supplemental bottled oxygen.

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Three-dimensional relief map of Mount Everest showing the South Col plateau and high-altitude route of the 1996 rescue.
Successful Oxygenless Summit and Heroic Solitary Rescue of Three Stranded Climbers at 8,000mπŸ§— Anatoli Boukreev
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1996-05-10

1996 Anatoli Boukreev Mount Everest Oxygenless Ascent & South Col Solo Rescue

On May 10–11, 1996, Kazakh master climber Anatoli Boukreev summitted Mount Everest (8,848m) without supplemental oxygen, descended to Camp IV, and ventured out alone into an apocalyptic blizzard at 8,000 metres on the South Col, single-handedly locating and saving three stranded climbers.

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Archival photograph of GΓΆran Kropp riding his fully-loaded bicycle with trailer from Sweden toward Everest in 1995.
Successful 13,000km Unassisted Bicycle Journey from Sweden, Solo Oxygenless Everest Summit, and Bicycle ReturnπŸ§— GΓΆran Kropp
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1996-05-23

1996 GΓΆran Kropp Self-Propelled Everest Bicycle & Solo Ascent Expedition

In 1996, Swedish adventurer GΓΆran Kropp completed the ultimate human-powered expedition by bicycling 13,000 kilometres from Stockholm to Mount Everest Base Camp, climbing Everest solo without supplemental oxygen or Sherpas on May 23, and bicycling 13,000 kilometres back home.

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Memorial stupa and epitaph honoring Babu Chiri Sherpa at Mount Everest Base Camp.
World Record 21 Continuous Hours on the Summit of Everest Without Supplemental OxygenπŸ§— Babu Chiri Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1999-05-06

1999 Babu Chiri Sherpa Everest 21-Hour Summit Bivouac Expedition

On May 6 to 7, 1999, legendary Nepalese mountaineer Babu Chiri Sherpa achieved an astonishing physiological feat by pitching a tent and surviving for twenty-one continuous hours on the 8,848-meter summit of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen.

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Mount Everest high camp on the South Col in the Himalayas, site of Babu Chiri Sherpa's historic 1999 ascent.
World Record: 21 Hours and 30 Minutes on the Summit of Mount Everest Without Supplemental OxygenπŸ§— Babu Chiri Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 1999-05-06

1999 Babu Chiri Sherpa Everest 21-Hour Summit Bivouac

On May 6, 1999, Nepali mountaineer Babu Chiri Sherpa pitched a tent on the 8,848-meter summit of Mount Everest and survived an unprecedented 21 hours and 30 minutes in the Death Zone without using supplemental bottled oxygen.

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The dramatic snow and ice slopes leading up to the high saddle of Mount Everest's North Col.
Historic First Ascent and Successful Descent of Mount Everest by a Nepali WomanπŸ§— Lhakpa Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2000-05-18

2000 Millennium Nepalese Women's Mount Everest Expedition

On May 18, 2000, Lhakpa Sherpa made history by reaching the summit of Mount Everest (8,848m) via the South Col and successfully descending alive, becoming the first Nepali woman in human history to complete a successful return from the summit.

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Archival landscape of Mount Everest and K2, summited without oxygen in 63 days by Karl Unterkircher in 2004.
Historic First Same-Season Summits of Everest and K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen in 63 DaysπŸ§— Karl Unterkircher
πŸ”οΈ K2πŸ“… 2004-07-26

2004 Karl Unterkircher Mount Everest and K2 Double Expedition

In spring and summer 2004, South Tyrolean alpinist Karl Unterkircher achieved the unprecedented feat of summiting both Mount Everest (8,848m) on May 24 and K2 (8,611m) on July 26 without supplemental bottled oxygen in just sixty-three days.

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Climbers carefully crossing towering seracs on aluminum ladders in the hazardous Khumbu Icefall on Mount Everest.
World Record 21st Ascent of Mount Everest & Environmental Clean-Up CampaignπŸ§— Apa Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2011-05-11

2011 Eco Everest Apa Sherpa 21st Summit Expedition

On May 11, 2011, legendary Nepalese mountaineer Apa Sherpa completed his world-record twenty-first summit of Mount Everest (8,848m) as climbing leader of the Eco Everest Expedition, dedicating his final climb to removing high-altitude waste and combating climate change.

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Mount Everest seen across the Khumbu Valley, site of Apa Sherpa's historic 21st summit in 2011.
Historic World Record: 21st Mount Everest Summit & Successful Removal of 4+ Tons of High-Altitude WasteπŸ§— Apa Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2011-05-11

2011 Apa Sherpa Eco Everest 21st Summit Expedition

On May 11, 2011, veteran Nepali mountaineer Apa Sherpa summited Mount Everest for an unprecedented twenty-first time, leading the Eco Everest Expedition to remove tons of historical rubbish and advocate for Himalayan climate preservation.

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Archival landscape of Mount Everest, summited on May 19, 2013 by Samina Baig as the first Pakistani woman.
First Pakistani Woman Ascent of Mount Everest (8,848m)πŸ§— Samina Baig
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2013-05-19

2013 Samina Baig Mount Everest Expedition

On May 19, 2013, twenty-two-year-old Samina Baig from Shimshal made history as the first Pakistani woman to conquer Mount Everest (8,848m), summiting via the South Col Route alongside her brother Mirza Ali and twin Indian climbers to champion South Asian gender equity.

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The steep rocky line of K2 Abruzzi Spur high in the Karakoram.
Guinness World Record as Youngest Person to Summit All 14 Eight-Thousanders (Age 30)πŸ§— Mingma Gyabu 'David' Sherpa +1
πŸ”οΈ K2πŸ“… 2019-10-29

2019 Mingma David Sherpa: Youngest 14 Peaks Record & High-Altitude Speed Campaign

On October 29, 2019, Mingma Gyabu 'David' Sherpa completed all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks at Shishapangma, becoming the youngest person in mountaineering history to stand on every eight-thousander at 30 years and 166 days.

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The glaciated summit of Shishapangma marking the completion of Project Possible.
Unprecedented World Record: 14x 8,000m Peaks in 189 DaysπŸ§— Nirmal Purja
πŸ”οΈ Annapurna IπŸ“… 2019-10-29

Project Possible 14/7: The 189-Day 14-Peak Odyssey

Led by former British Gurkha and Special Boat Service (SBS) operator Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja MBE, Project Possible 14/7 shattered the world speed record by summiting all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in 6 months and 6 days (189 days), smashing the prior record of nearly eight years.

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Mount Everest towering in the high Himalayas.
Heroic Solo Rescue of Hypothermic Climber from 8,500m Balcony to Camp 4πŸ§— Gelje Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2023-05-18

2023 Gelje Sherpa: Miraculous Everest Death Zone Rescue at 8,500m

On May 18, 2023, while guiding a private client toward the summit of Mount Everest, Gelje Sherpa spotted a dying Malaysian climber shivering alone at 8,500 metres in the Death Zone; abandoning his client's summit bid, Gelje bundled the climber into a mat and hauled him down to safety.

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The dramatic snow-covered summit pyramid of Mount Everest towering above the Khumbu Valley as seen from Kala Patthar.
Historic All-Time World Record 30th Ascent of Mount EverestπŸ§— Kami Rita Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2024-05-22

2024 Seven Summit Treks Kami Rita Sherpa 30th Everest Expedition

On May 22, 2024, 54-year-old Nepalese mountain master Kami Rita Sherpa reached the summit of Mount Everest (8,848m) for an extraordinary thirtieth time, solidifying the all-time world record for total ascents of the world's highest peak.

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Kami Rita Sherpa standing on the summit of Mount Everest holding the Nepali flag, celebrating his record summits.
All-Time Historic World Record: 30th Successful Summit of Mount EverestπŸ§— Kami Rita Sherpa
πŸ”οΈ Mount EverestπŸ“… 2024-05-22

2024 Kami Rita Sherpa 30th Mount Everest Record Summit

On May 22, 2024, 54-year-old Nepali climbing legend Kami Rita Sherpa reached the summit of Mount Everest for an astounding thirtieth time, extending his undisputed world record as the most prolific high-altitude climber in human history.

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Page 1 of 8

Archival Chronicles & Stories on this Route (30)

In-depth longform historical narratives, harrowing survival accounts, and firsthand alpine journals on South Col & Southeast Ridge (Normal Route).

Showing 1–4 of 30
Mount Everest showcasing the sweeping West Ridge profile and high summits.
Himalayan Golden Age ChroniclesπŸ§— Jim Whittaker

The West Ridge and Beyond: The 1963 American Mount Everest Triumph

In May 1963, the American Mount Everest Expedition achieved historic triumphs on the roof of the world. Jim Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest on May 1, followed on May 22 by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld's audacious West Ridge traverse and open bivouac at 8,500 metres.

Read Story Chronicle
The imposing north face of Mount Everest rising steeply above the Tibetan plateau.
Himalayan North Face EpicsπŸ§— Lou Whittaker

The Great Couloir: Lou Whittaker's 1984 American North Face Everest Victory

In October 1984, legendary Rainier guide Lou Whittaker led the historic China-Everest Expedition to the first American ascent of Mount Everest from Tibet. Operating through the Great Couloir and North Col, the team placed Phil Ershler on the summit amidst hurricane-force gales.

Read Story Chronicle
Mount Everest South Col high camps in Nepal, staging ground for Babu Chiri Sherpa's 1999 21-hour summit bivouac.
Himalayan High-Altitude LegendsπŸ§— Babu Chiri Sherpa

Twenty-One Hours on the Crown of the Earth: Babu Chiri Sherpa's Unimaginable Everest Summit Bivouac

On May 6, 1999, legendary Nepali Sherpa Babu Chiri pitched a tent on the 8,848-meter summit of Mount Everest and spent 21 hours and 30 minutes in the Death Zone without supplemental oxygen.

Read Story Chronicle
Mount Everest South Col in the Himalayas, climbed by Ang Rita Sherpa in winter without oxygen in 1987.
Winter Himalayan PioneersπŸ§— Ang Rita Sherpa

The Snow Leopard's Coldest Hour: Ang Rita Sherpa's Historic 1987 Winter Ascent of Everest Without Oxygen

On December 22, 1987, legendary Nepali mountaineer Ang Rita Sherpa completed the only winter ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in human history, facing temperatures below -45Β°C.

Read Story Chronicle
Page 1 of 8

Documented Sources & Archival Citations

  • The Ascent of Everest(John Hunt / Hodder & Stoughton)

    Supporting claim: Official account of the 1953 British expedition and South Col route

    Accessed/Documented: 1953
  • High Adventure(Edmund Hillary / Oxford University Press)

    Supporting claim: Firsthand account of negotiating the Hillary Step and South Col

    Accessed/Documented: 1955